My opinion being that most brands make bicycles their racers want, or the bike a designer would race, and these designs are not focused on the everyday rider. Racing many times eschews comfort, practicality, and value. Media focuses on these "halo bikes" as being the thing which is "most interesting" to the reader. It would be as if every bicycle rider only rode what the equivalent automobile in racing is for a daily driver. An unaffordable, expensive to maintain, impractical car. Why do we do this in the bicycle industry? It's stupid.
Anyway....
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| Image courtesy of Factor Bikes' social media. |
I'm going to use this image grab from a Factor Bikes' social media post showing a racing bike from the recent Traka gravel event in Spain which shows a reportedly new Factor gravel bike model. This will serve as a model for the misguided racing focus on gravel bike design.
Let me first say I am not against having racing bikes. What I am saying is the influence these designs have on everyday gravel rider's bicycle choices is far too great. In fact, it should have little if any impact on gravel bike design. Why? Because the vast majority of riders don't race, and do not need racing bikes.
My thoughts will correspond to the numbers I have placed on the image starting with the seat post at #1 and going in a clockwise rotation from there to number 7 which will end my thoughts on current design for gravel bikes.
#1 - Seat Post: This is easy, but any design using an aero seat post generally is adding more discomfort to the rider. This is because most aero seat posts are not designed to flex along their length, like a good carbon seat post does.
#2 - Integration: The fad these days is to tuck away all the cables out of the wind. This is easier with today's penchant for wireless shifting, but those pesky brake cables still need to be hidden, apparently. This seems fine until you want to change your handlebar/stem combo for reasons of fit, comfort, choice, or all of the above. Integrated bars and stems take away all those choices. Fine for racers. Dumb for everyone else. Let those cables be free! Losing a few watts to air drag is nothing for the average rider, but they will gain choices, and less expensive maintenance costs down the road.
#3 - Carbon Forks: For the sake of this exercise, metal forks will be excluded. Carbon is wonderfully light, strong, and supposedly "tunable" for ride qualities. However; no carbon fork manufacturer has decided to take advantage of the tunability of carbon for rider comfort when it comes to forks. Either it cannot be done at all, or it cannot be done without assurance of avoiding failures and thus, liability for injuries, or designers just don't care about comfort in fork designs. I'm choosing the liability fears here, but that is purely speculation on my part. Whatever the case may be, carbon forks are overly-stiff and this is especially true on race designs.
#4 - MTB Sized Tires: My theory on this is in relation to the point above concerning forks. These big, poofy MTB tires are being employed because forks are too stiff and stems with any built-in forgiveness are not possible due to integration and weight concerns. Ditch the heavier tires, use a commonsense approach to cable management, and maybe make the fork nicer to ride for we who are not the less than 1% of riders who are top-tier racers.
#5 - Front Derailleurs and 1X: Chain management for a 2X system is now programmable on wireless drive trains. You don't even need to think about "when to shift" anymore, and so, why do we stick to the thought that a massively out of whack chain line on 1X is okay? It isn't. Racers feel 1X is more aero. This is laughable to the ordinary cyclist. Even if aero is a thing with front derailleurs, and even if a mechanical system relies on the rider to make shifts, a 2X system is more efficient, does not rely on huge jumps in rear cog spacing, and can be made so the parts are less expensive, especially in regard to the cassette.
#6 - Chain Stay Length: Racers want the rear tire tucked right up underneath their rear ends. Fine for racing, perhaps. It certainly will make you feel faster because, well......you'll feel every bump. Where is the seat on a bus with the roughest ride? Right over the rear axle. Average riders do not need short chain stays. I'm not saying we need really long chain stays either. Just don't put me on a bike with a rear wheel tucked right underneath me.
#7 - Tire Clearance: Just a thought here on tire clearances. I enjoy my 45mm and 50mm tires, but I also really like lightweight tires. There is a point of diminishing returns with regard to tire width. Especially if you want some kind of tougher casing or puncture protection. I'd rather ride a narrower tire which falls under 600 grams for my do-all roads bike choice. (Note - I did not say "gravel", although that surface is included) If I am mountain biking, I'll choose a proper MTB. I think a distinction is already there and trying to blur those lines is not only unnecessary, but confusing to consumers.
Okay, those are my takes on current top-end gravel bike design and why I think much of what is being done is the wrong direction for most people. I know not everyone will agree. I'd love to see what you think about these ideas. Let me know in the comments.
Thanks for reading Guitar Ted Productions


Love nerding out on this stuff :)
ReplyDelete1) Seat Post --> Agreed but not for comfort, more for practicality. A good old round seat post can be found nearly everywhere including 10+ years after the bike is a few model years old.
2) Integration --> Agreed. I will say my new tri bike (Trinity) is the first bike I have with full integration and it looks the business. Do I want to work on it? Absolutely not - thank goodness for my lbs!
3) Carbon Forks --> I like a nice strong carbon fork for steering precision. I remember switching my old Mukluk aluminum fork out for their carbon variant and being blown away the first time I took a corner at speed. Plus, who cares how stiff it is if you have....
4) MTB Sized Tires --> ...big cushy tires. Not only are they for comfort that way, but also a big old helping of confidence on long, high-speed descents or areas with rough patches of gravel. People say the Contis I run are faster (they do feel rapid), but really I love them for the confidence.
5) Front Derailleurs --> Can't argue here. I have the 1X13 Red XPLR on my gravel bike and love it; however, I made sure to get a 2X system on my TT bike for the better efficiency and closer gear jumps. Don't mind the gear jumps as much on my gravel bike for some reason.
6) Chain Stay Length --> Love me a sporty feeling bike, so add me to the list of people as a part of the problem! Even when I am not racing, I just like the feel of a bike that races forward with little input.
7) Tire Clearance --> See my comment about MTB-sized tires above. :)
@Tyler Loewens - Thanks for the comments! Couple of reactions to those points you make:
DeleteFat bikes have a LOT more mass and leverage, plus a HUGE tire contact patch. It's no wonder you felt a difference when forks were swapped. I once had a Ti Muk, (You may recall it having been a long time reader here) which I put an On One fat bike fork on which was carbon. One of the best, most comfortable carbon forks I've ever ridden. So I know it CAN be done, but it just isn't with gravel bikes, and this is my main point.
Give me a laterally stiff fork which has good ride characteristics and I'll give you your fat MTB front tires. ;>)
This list is great! Integrated bar/stem is a dealbreaker for me. I would not buy a bike with that setup.
ReplyDeleteForks - you're gonna hate this one but I need the frameset to be suspension corrected so I can use my a gravel suspension fork.
1x - I agree that 2x has its place and needs to be an option. I was listening to a recent podcast where they were discussing the idea that there is now a generation of riders that have NEVER used a front Front Derailleur. Crazy!
Chain stay length - this idea comes from the mtb world but I want the front and rear center to be proportional. On my size 58 I need to the chain stay length to grow with the front center.
Tire clearance - I like what they did on the Diverge 4. Official tire clearance is 50mm. But, there is lots of mud clearance at 50mm. In the fine print they disclose that a 2.2 mtb tire will fit.
My additions:
Downtube storage. Seems silly but now that I've tried a bike with a downtube storage hatch it is hard to imagine buying one without it.
Shorter cranks - I like shorter cranks (165s). Seems like alot of other people do too. Shopping online I generally find that the 175s are on clearance and the 165s are out of stock. I'd like frame design to reflect this new normal. Drop the BB 5-10mm. Increase the stack and headtube length.
More stack - the average rider benefits from more stack. Elite racers can size down and run a -17 degree stem.
@Scott - Thanks for your comments! I see a couple things here I agree with which I did not touch on. So, I appreciate the enlightenment.
DeleteI've not tried the cargo space down tube thing. I can see why you like it, but I wonder - for myself, at any rate - if I would end up stuffing things in there and forgetting I had them in there. I know, it's probably just me, but for me, minimalist cargo packing seems to work better and especially if it is visible stuff, (tool roll, frame pump) or cargo is carried on my person (jersey pockets), or in a place I see enough and think to look in once in awhile (top tube bag).
Different strokes and all.......
Shorter cranks than 175mm are a hard pass from me. I've tried numerous times over the past 35 years to go with shorter cranks, only to go back. They aren't the silver bullet for everyone, and I suspect that much like oval chainrings, they'll disappear into history with barely a whimper when people realize how much better proportionally sized cranks are. Mark my words.
DeleteCargo in the downtube is nice on a MTB, but is totally unnecessary on a gravel bike. That's what bags are for.
I like the proportional crank length concept in theory. But Lennard Zinn would have me on 184-196mm cranks on my 58cm bike. That's just not gonna be an option for a number of reasons. Short cranks are here to stay. Gravel has been infected with road aero bug. Zinn proposes that the reason you are seeing pros move to shorter cranks, despite the potential downsides to moving away proportional crank sizing, is for the aero benefits. Reducing your cranks by 10mm increases your knee clearance by 20mm. That 20mm allows you to be more comfortable in a lower more aero body position. Body aerodynamics and bike fit are the low hanging fruit with the biggest and most cost effective gains. Shorter cranks help with bike fit and aerodynamics. Now, the context here is "best interest of the average rider". Shorter cranks allow the average rider to be more comfortable in a more efficient riding position. This is good for everyone, not just racers. And I'll got out on a limb here, but I would guess the average (and median) male rider here in the U.S. has at least a little bit of gut (which is not ideal from a health perspective) and I promise that extra 20mm of knee clearance improves their comfort and bike fit.
DeleteI don't love the word "unnecessary". The Rodeo Lab crew completed the old DK200 on walmart beach cruisers which effectively renders all the bike technology discussed on this site "unnecessary". Again, the context here is "best interest of the average rider". People want and need to carry stuff with them when they ride. There are lots of ways to accomplish that. But, I will double down and say any future gravel bike released with a massive carbon downtube that omits downtube storage is a design failure. It's a benefit to the rider that should be incorporated. Bags and jersey pockets are great. But it is nice to have a baseline storage option that is included with the bike you just spent thousands of dollars on.
DeleteA few thoughts.....
ReplyDeleteWould disagree with the 2x for all riders. My experience is that with newer riders, a 2x system is not very intuitive. I can't tell you how many times I have seen my wife and daughter in a very cross chained position with a 2x, or muscling up a hill cause they didn't think to shift down to a smaller front ring. A 1x drivetrain, so simple for them.
Agree that bike storage is awesome. Keep all my flat repair stuff in there, cause it never leaves the bike, I don't have to remember it, and it is protected from elements. Also still have room to stuff a jacket or vest in there when needed - and therefore don't need a bag. What not create storage in otherwise unused space that places the weight low on the bike?
Finally, what are proportionally size cranks - and why wouldn't that necessitate shorter crank options?
@A-A-Ron. Thanks for the comments!
DeleteI have to wonder how it is okay to be cross chained on a 1X and not okay on a 2X? (1X, by design, is subject to severe lateral forces on teh chain, just as you do when cross-chaining a 2X)
Crank length: I'd add in the previously mentioned chain stay length matching for rider size. Trouble is, this would impact costs to consumers and so brands are loathe to do this. Especially since it is not a very appealing feature visually. And let's be honest, most people subconsciously or consciously base a bike purchase heavily weighted on aesthetics.
Downtube storage might be protected from the elements, but, at least on my V5 Ibis Ripley, its not protected from hosing off the bike. I put my tube and tools in there when I got that bike last spring, forgot about them, and a month or so later my tools were all rusted, and I even had them in the cotopaxi storage bags Ibis provides. Internal storage is a great idea, but its gotta raise the cost and since its not watertight, im not likely to put anything else but tubes in it.
DeleteOn the other hand, I love the Ibis pork chop bag that fits in the frame. I just put my tools, pump and tube in there.
A-A-Ron: agree with you that many casual riders are flummoxed by 2x and 3X drivetrains. I think Mark was saying that electronic shifting can take care of this for you, since you can (I think) just click “easier” or “faster” and the mechanism figures it out.
DeleteProportional crank length is the idea that your crankarms should be sized relative to your leg length. A couple of people have done extensive research into this, Lennard Zinn being one, and come up with about 20.6% or 21% (if I’m remembering right) of your “cycling inseam” (not your pants inseam).
For me, that comes out to about 200-205mm. I got a set of 200mm cranks a number of years ago and they were a revelation. They felt weird for the first half mile and now they are the most natural thing I can imagine.
Obviously, past a certain point (maybe 175-180mm) you can’t put them in a standard frame without risking pedal strikes. That’s the drawback.
@rth009 - Rusted tools! Ha! This would 100% happen to me if I had down tube storage available on one of my bicycles.
ReplyDeleteI can’t comment beyond I don’t want a carbon frame or fork for anything.
ReplyDelete