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| When I built up this bike in '03 I used a UN series BB |
The Background:
First of all, it may be a good thing to consider the context of the times before Shimano created the cartridge bottom bracket. This was when all bicycles in bike shops generally had some sort of square taper spindle bottom bracket which was "fully serviceable".
What I mean by the term "fully serviceable" is that the component could be torn apart, inspected, have parts replaced, re-lubricated, and reassembled making the potential for the component to last a long time fairly high.
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| Diagram showing a cup & cone serviceable bottom bracket |
While there were variants on the theme, a serviceable bottom bracket was typically made up of a hardened steel spindle, loose ball bearings, also in steel, two "cups", and usually some sort of lock ring.
In this sort of arrangement it was absolutely critical for the frame to have clean, straight threads inside the bottom bracket shell and that the faces where the bottom bracket tube faced outward on either side be 100% parallel to each other. If these things weren't true, the bottom bracket would wear prematurely, or be unusable due to poor adjustment capabilities.
The cup and cone set up of this type of bottom bracket required skill to set correctly or the bearings would wear out, along with the cups and spindle, before they should. This adjustment required various different spanners, specific to certain types of bottom brackets. Additionally, this sort of bottom bracket was prone to contamination from wet weather riding, dust, and dirt.
Take these things and add the dozens of variants (differing spindle lengths and thread types) and a repair shop could quite literally have a machinist's cabinet full of spares to service these bottom brackets. Not to mention the time required to install and adjust these bottom brackets.
The Cartridge Bottom Bracket:
Along about 1992 Shimano introduced a new bottom bracket which was sealed up inside a metal tube so you could not see the bearings. They called it a "cartridge" type bottom bracket. While the first cartridge style bottom brackets looked very similar to what you can still buy today, there were a couple of weird quirks regarding the originals.
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| Originally the plastic cup was on the drive side. |
Another oddity was the original cartridge style bottom brackets were serviceable. You could take the bearings out, re-grease the unit, and the cones were adjustable via a specialized tool sold by Shimano. I happen to have the tool, oddly enough!
Additionally, the cartridges were not specific to bottom bracket shell length originally. This difference between 68mm and 73mm shells was accounted for by the shoulder in the inside diameter of the plastic cup. A wider shoulder was for 73mm shells and a narrow shoulder was for the 68mm shells. You could use a cartridge unit in either shell as long as you had the proper non-driveside cup. This reduced the number of variants Shimano had to make since every cartridge worked with both bottom bracket shell widths.
Finally, and most importantly for mechanics, the Shimano cartridge system reduced the number of bottom bracket variants by a very significant amount. There were less spindle length variants and you didn't have to worry about bearing race variations between similar width spindles either. This made stocking bottom brackets easier for shops and easier for manufacturers as well, since Shimano only offered certain spindle lengths. In fact, now you pretty much only have three spindle lengths which cover almost every application.
The original UN series was split up into three levels matching the old DX/LX/XT hierarchy for MTB and the 105/Ultegra/Dura Ace on the road side. XT, and eventually XTR, along with Dura Ace had metal non-driveside cups instead of plastic and were UN-90 series. The mid-level was UN-70 series, and the original entry level cartridges were UN-50 series. Later on lower series cartridge bottom bracket variants were offered to accommodate entry level MTB/Hybrid applications, and some road bike/touring bike applications as well.
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| Image from a recent eBay listing for a UN-71 cartridge bottom bracket |
Just Too Good!
As I said, these were made so well they were too good! Shimano sealed the units so well they resisted contamination to a great degree, making the units last far longer. While the UN-70 and 90 series were lighter and had better machining, the UN-50 series was so much better than previous serviceable bottom brackets, and went for such ridiculously low prices, everyone used these when they could. Of course, Shimano eventually made less expensive, lower-tier cartridge bottom brackets and those - while possessing the long-wearing traits of the upper end units - were far less quality in terms of bearings and free-movement.
Eventually Shimano moved on to pipe spindle type bottom brackets around the year 2000. The square taper bottom brackets fell out of favor as crank sets became two-piece with spindles and bearings were housed in separate cups. This was when I started hoarding square taper UN-50 series bottom brackets.
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| I've run the same UN-52 BB in this bike since it was built in '07 |
I had to replace the one in the Karate Monkey after 4 Winters of abuse, That one was frozen in the frame! I had to remove it piecemeal.
I maybe have had to replace one other of my used bottom brackets due to it being worn out.
So, you perhaps can see why Shimano moved on to stiffer pipe spindle bottom brackets and different designs, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with a square taper crank and a Shimano cartridge style bottom bracket. You can purchase brand new UN-55's yet, and used UN-70 series bottom brackets are out there for right around $35.00 - $40.00 each.
If you have any further questions about these or other components, let me know in the comments. Thanks for reading Guitar Ted Productions!





I believe it's un300's (might be 55's, can't remember) are built like a high-quality version of a cheapy square taper, where the bearing is exposed under the lock-ring/cup. The cool part is shimano presses on some steel rings to the spindle that are the perfect width for converting 68mm she'll spindles to 73mm cups, once completely disassembled. Also, the cartridge bearings can be replaced with Phil Wood bearings, for more prestige (not that I've gone through a set of shimano bearings, yet)! I can't imagine more value out of a $9 BB. Still don't get why anyone would use anything else, yet quality square taper cranksets are getting hard to find at a reasonable price without going used.
ReplyDelete@JR. Z. Check Soma Fab Shop for decent affordable square taper cranks. I have them on many bikes now. Full retail is <$140 including chainrings
DeleteMan, when I started at Cycle Works in the summer of 1990, the cartridge BB proliferation hadn't happened yet, and bottom brackets were a common repair item. We had two huge drawers of spindles – one drawer for nutted axles and one for bolted ones. It was like finding a puzzle piece to replace a pitted spindle.
ReplyDeleteI played the spindle search game to get the chainline I wanted. Plus the constant pitted race replacement
DeleteFWIW, I've never worn out a Shimano cartridge bearing BB... I still have a couple BB73s in the bin.
ReplyDeleteI use to destroy 2-3 spindle races a year in loose ball BBs until I installed a Zerk grease injection kit.
ReplyDeleteWas years later before I used any cartridge BB, and I haven’t worn out one, from any brand, including super cheap no-name ones.
But absolutely THE best BB I have is a Phill Wood. It has been in three frames. 3-4 different cranks, probably more than 40,000 miles in all conditions. Zero play and probably spins smoother than new
A post that truly warms my retrogrouch heart. The UN BBs were one of the few absolutely perfect bike parts. They are essentially cheaper versions of the venerated SKF, with cro-mo spindles (SKFs have stainless) and lower quality seals. The key to both is the bearings running directly on the spindle, like in a traditional cup and cone BB, allowing for larger bearings which spread the load and last longer.
ReplyDeleteShimano's current square tapers (UN300) and most other manufacturers including the boutique brands use common industrial cartridge bearings pressed onto the spindles. Their inner races take up space and necessitate smaller balls which don't holt up. Additionally, they rely solely on said cartridge bearing's contact seals, which are designed to keep out dust but not water. My experiences with the new design are universally bad, regardless of manufacturer. The exposed, pressed-on bearings are under spec'd for this application--they're used because they're cheap, readily available, and easy to assemble--but they don't last.
While more expensive to make, Shimano had the scale and capacity to produce the old UN design cheaply and in house--I have $25 UN BBs on gravel bikes that are over a decade old and still flawless, whereas I've seen $250 White Ti BBs need new bearings after only a few months. I know demand for square tapers has basically evaporated, but it's discouraging to see manufacturers (Shimano included) scale down everything to the lowest possible cost. Business is business I suppose...
Thanks for the memories.
ReplyDelete