tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post875155711762786689..comments2024-03-28T08:40:23.164-05:00Comments on Guitar Ted Productions: Off Road Drop Bars 101: Why Radius MattersGuitar Tedhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10960580677548417562noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-23413778862050299502019-01-14T23:54:44.887-05:002019-01-14T23:54:44.887-05:00Modern shifter hoods are so big and curved that th...Modern shifter hoods are so big and curved that they're almost like riding in the drops with lots of hand room and a forward upswept curve to brace against, but Ted's points about optimizing for the actual drops are good. The drops can offer a lower center of gravity and a better supported position.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06466812428938977052noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-52800915546113092712016-07-27T11:22:52.717-05:002016-07-27T11:22:52.717-05:00@hank: Try Clockwork Bikes: http://www.clockworkbi...@hank: Try Clockwork Bikes: http://www.clockworkbikes.com/<br /><br />They are a custom shop that does a custom stem for applications such as yours. Guitar Tedhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10960580677548417562noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-10021246587633545832016-07-27T10:47:20.943-05:002016-07-27T10:47:20.943-05:00G.T. Howdy;
Ok, so plugging in the new concept to...G.T. Howdy;<br /><br />Ok, so plugging in the new concept to get reasonable reach and drop numbers I get a stem that would be 151mm long and have a rise of +53º. That's mounted to a standard 30mm headtube. Does that sound about right? Where would you suggest I look for something like that?<br />Thanks for the reply above and any other ideas you might have.<br /><br />hankhankhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08385320021596416174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-45450032234592030092016-07-27T10:11:50.627-05:002016-07-27T10:11:50.627-05:00@hank h: Essentially what you are giving me here a...@hank h: Essentially what you are giving me here as a result is a super long steer tube, a bunch of spacers, and you extension to get the reach correct. Did I get that right?<br /><br />I don't like that set up, and I'll tell you why. A long steer tube with a stem and handle bar is essentially a long lever with a short handle- basically you are setting up the steer tube to flex a lot under load, which is really hard on the head set, and obviously stresses that steer tube more than maybe it should be. I've actually seen bent steer tubes from set ups like this. <br /><br />To get to the same place in space with the handle bars, I suggest a shorter steer tube- just enough exposed to maybe only need a few spacers at most, and a stem with a RADICAL rise which also would incorporate the reach necessary. This means something custom for your set up. It would be far more trail worthy, as the lever on the steer tube has less affect on bending it, the stem, (which should be designed for off road), takes the stresses, and the handle bar is right where you need it.<br /><br />Same result in terms of position, just a better, more trail worthy way to get there. <br /><br />YES- it is more expensive and perhaps harder to get the conversion done, but it is the right way to do it. <br /><br />Good luck! Guitar Tedhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10960580677548417562noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-5699920283818194332016-07-27T09:25:35.348-05:002016-07-27T09:25:35.348-05:00G.T. Howdy;
Have decided to do a MTB Dirt-Drop co...G.T. Howdy;<br /><br />Have decided to do a MTB Dirt-Drop conversion. Bike for the project is a 1995 Stumpjumper FS http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1995&brand=Specialized&model=Stumpjumper+FS<br />The biggest question that I have had so far is getting the correct/proper Stem height and length. I've used one of those online inter-active calculators http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php and plugged-in my bikes measurements (floor to top of fork tube cap = 830mm, distance from top of Fork tube to front axle = 245mm. Came up with an angle of 73.5º), Stock stem is 135mm in length and is approx. -14º. I AM getting a different front fork (Surley Troll)as the Mag-21 is shot. So that may slightly change the Headtube angle slightly. So the following may need to be re-calculated but I don't think it will have to much effect(?).<br /><br />After researching several different sets of dirt drop bars I'm thinking of the On-One Midges. Plugged the Sweep/Reach (88mm), and Overall Drop (136mm), dimensions into the calc. What I've found is ... interesting to say the least. <br />Fork tube above the Head tube will need to be 148mm tall. and a stem of 81mm long with -17º will have the drops at the same height as the flat bars that are stock on the bike.<br /><br />Is this what you have been suggesting for a compatible fitting?<br />Think I've read all the articles you have written on this and think I have the concept correct. <br /><br />Thanks for any thoughts, corrections or comments.<br /><br />hankhankhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08385320021596416174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-13599099325606977012016-05-20T18:09:52.373-05:002016-05-20T18:09:52.373-05:00Good topic, I've tried a number of dirt drops...Good topic, I've tried a number of dirt drops, including Midge, Newer WTB's, Origin8, and the Luxy. I just couldn't get used to riding the hoods when climbing/flats when they are so narrow. The drop position on the Luxy was very great for descending and technical stuff but just didn't work for all around riding for me. I just got Cowchippers for a dropbar 27.5+ build and think they are the bees knees! <br />Still love riding Nitto Noodles most of the time on my monster cross bike but I'd love to try the new Ritchey Evomax which seem like a cross between a Noodle and a Cowbell.Michael_Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14800029298550742749noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-77090845623495066462016-05-20T10:01:18.531-05:002016-05-20T10:01:18.531-05:00excellent post. i've just begun riding a Farg...excellent post. i've just begun riding a Fargo, two decent rides on it so far. it's a fun bike but i'm still getting the cockpit dialed in, this post will help expedite the process. i had the ramps and hoods in line and horizontal, this had the drops pointed forward of the crankset. this has been adjusted per your recs, looking forward to the next ride.<br />cheers,<br />kevkevhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13694599373878016124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-13456778796998632442016-05-19T19:41:28.167-05:002016-05-19T19:41:28.167-05:00I feel like this post is the culmination of a numb...I feel like this post is the culmination of a number of thoughts you've been posting for some time, GT. However, it gets right to the point, and is the first thing I would recommend people read who are considering dirt drop bars. <br /><br />I think the source of a lot of continued confusion/frustration in regards to using dirt drop bars, and setting them up properly, is that people don't seem to be able to get past pre-conceived ideas based on road/touring bars. You really have to come at the dirt drop bar thing from a different approach, and quit making the hoods the place of emphasis. On the other hand, I think there are a lot of people trying to adapt dirt drop bars to general touring applications, etc, when this is not what these bars are actually designed for, and these folks would likely be better served by going with a more conventional drop bar instead. <i>A dirt drop bar is meant for riding dirt, and it's primarily meant for riding in the drops.</i> This doesn't preclude comfortable hood placement, and the best drop bars - as you point out - accommodate this, but it really isn't what these bars are primarily designed for. <br /><br />I've been on a Junebug for about two months now and it works for me in a way that the Woodchipper never did. Smithhammerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01771440476655478031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-509215441099338932016-05-19T09:26:10.476-05:002016-05-19T09:26:10.476-05:00Good article, I wish they would make the luxy bar ...Good article, I wish they would make the luxy bar again! I tried the jones h-bar last year. The hand positions are nice, but it was harsh over bumps compared to the midge. Probably due to the fact that it's built to mtb standards.Jon Steinhauserhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02739069458721207913noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-53916114166269666112016-05-19T05:37:27.039-05:002016-05-19T05:37:27.039-05:00I have two favorite bars. One is the Salsa Cowbell...I have two favorite bars. One is the Salsa Cowbell, the drops are really comfortable and have flair to them but its still easy to figure out where to put your shifters. <br />Also the 3T Ergonova. The drops don't have the flair like the Cowbell (they flair a little but not a lot) but the tops are oval shaped not round. They feel more comfortable to me then round tops do. If the Cowbell had oval shaped tops and still had the flair like they do now that would be the perfect bar for me. Also maybe carbon?Danielhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07681918872264975695noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-56017535338840796702016-05-18T13:24:11.310-05:002016-05-18T13:24:11.310-05:00@bostonbybike: There was the Ragley Luxy Bar, whic...@bostonbybike: There was the Ragley Luxy Bar, which did what you are suggesting, but other than that, no- You are correct. The Midge/June Bug comes closest currently. <br /><br />My favorite bars right now are the Salsa Cycles Cowchipper and Cowbell. Constantly varying radius bars that are easy to set up to get all positions usable.<br /><br />@Evan Baird: This post is valid despite what stem you use. The stem has no influence on the radius of the bend to the drop, and thus, no influence on lever placement/ergonomics of that relationship. Stem length/height only determines the position of the bar relative to the other touch points of the bike. Important? You bet. But that has no bearing on what I am discussing in this post. <br /><br />@youcancallmeAl: A small sampling of some recent Trans Iowa images where you can find some folks using their drop positions: https://www.flickr.com/photos/142768178@N08/sets/72157667930872936/<br /><br />So, yes. It happens out there. ;>)Guitar Tedhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10960580677548417562noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-34064895238645998232016-05-18T12:44:38.923-05:002016-05-18T12:44:38.923-05:00Thanks for this post. I have always wondered how a...Thanks for this post. I have always wondered how a bar like the salsa woodchipper is supposed to work. Take a look at a picture of a stock fargo on the salsa website. The lower portion of the drop points down to the ground at a VERY steep angle. Is that really the position the bar was designed for?scotthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14960289547831156986noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-32885071532893228112016-05-18T11:01:18.002-05:002016-05-18T11:01:18.002-05:00And yet when I look a pictures and videos of the m...And yet when I look a pictures and videos of the many gravel races being held these days, I can't remember ever seeing many folks riding with their hands in the drops.youcancallmeAlhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02578252140097961816noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-42434411247875377292016-05-18T09:45:15.222-05:002016-05-18T09:45:15.222-05:00All this makes me think - why we can't have of...All this makes me think - why we can't have off-road drop bars that run top and drop sections parallel (or nearly parallel) to each other? In other words, you could install such bars the way that tops with hoods would be nearly parallel to the ground and the drops wouldn't dramatically point downward. No such designs exist, I think.<br />Let's say that you take Maes Parallel bars ( https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/handlebars/maes-parallel-318-handlebars/ ) and bend the drops outward a lot (plus you would have to extend them somehow as those bars are too narrow, but that's another problem).bostonbybikehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16002562971047930168noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-13477979317267877332016-05-18T08:41:16.398-05:002016-05-18T08:41:16.398-05:00Very interesting and nicely done! I love my Jones...Very interesting and nicely done! I love my Jones Bar so far...Piperguy416https://www.blogger.com/profile/13999204898699187957noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12831567.post-11933010437520035132016-05-18T04:06:15.835-05:002016-05-18T04:06:15.835-05:00Great post - pretty much sums it all up with the a...Great post - pretty much sums it all up with the angle that the extension sits at being the most important. Your hoods are not the focus - your drops are! Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10214020307108972873noreply@blogger.com