Riding Gravel Radio Ranch: Episode Eight of the Riding Gravel Radio Ranch features Greg Gleason, the "winner" of T.I.v11 by virtue of his accomplishment of getting by Checkpoint #1- the only rider of 93 total to get through. Greg got 123 miles up the road before pulling the plug. We were
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| MG (L) and Greg tipping one back at the end of T.I.v11 |
Ira's Trans Iowas were vastly different than Greg's and both were "full runs", not truncated by missing time cut-offs or by virtue of bad roads. If anyone hasn't figured it out yet, if no one makes the cut-offs, the event is over with no finishers. In the case of a Trans Iowa v4 or v6, where the organizers pulled riders off the course, or set up a finish line shorter than the planned distance, and the riders were holding a pace to get them to the checkpoint/finish on time, the event is seen differently. In the case of v6, John Gorilla and Joe Meiser were together in the lead when the event was called and we set up the finish in North English, Iowa. We couldn't declare an outright winner in that event because we weren't there when we told them it was over. We were there for everyone elses finishes that year. It's quite possible that both Gorilla or Meiser could have had two out right T.I. wins, albeit Johns would have been both shortened versions had he been declared the winner of v6.
Now as far as Greg, or for that matter, Lindsay Gauld's (Trans Iowa v2) performances go, we have said they are "winners" in that these men made it the furthest of anyone else under extraordinary circumstances, but in both instances, they missed time cut-offs and no one finished either event.
Just a few technicalities to clear up there........
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| My 2003 Karate Monkey in 2005 |
Hey, anyone out there remember my 2003 Karate Monkey? Yeah, well it still has a stuck cartridge bottom bracket in it and months, literally months, of soaking it in penetrating oils and solvents didn't help a bit. So, I am going to have a little advice giving contest to see if anyone reading here can come up with a solution to my problem. Now here are the details....
The bottom bracket is a Shimano UN-51 square taper unit that was installed originally in the bike when I built it. (A 118mm spindle, for you detail freaks out there.) Anyway, this bike went through parts of four Winters and maybe more, which have frozen the bottom bracket so I cannot remove it, and it needs to be removed if I want to ever use this bike again. (And I do!)
I've used a typical Shimano bottom bracket tool held on with a bolt and used a large, 12" adjustable jaw wrench with a big ol' hammer to bang on the handle with several times to no avail. I then get tired, park the whole enchilada off to the side, and get on with other projects. That was when I was doing a metric ton of Twenty Nine Inches work, but that gig is over, and I have more free time to get to the shop now and this project is moving to the front burner.
If someone out there gets me the "magic" technique and it works, I will arrange for something cool to reward you with. (Don't get your hopes up for anything too valuable!) But I will show my appreciation for any good ideas I get here that work.
Anyone is welcomed, but make sure you have tools to fix a flat and can ride 40-ish miles at a moderate pace. We did the route last week in a little over 2.5 hours. I may tack on more afterward to get something going for the Dirty Kanza 200 training, but that depends on my family at home. I'm in for the 3GR at any rate.
And that's a wrap on this week. Have a great weekend and keep the rubber side dirty!
14 comments:
Yo GT....have you considered trying a longer wrench (adjustable or the Park extension) in combination with a "breaker" bar? Or possibly mounting up the BB tool as before and locking up the tool in a vise..then use the frame as your lever? I'm not looking for any prize...just offering some thoughts. Good luck!
It sounds like you've made a valiant effort to remove that stuck bottom bracket. First, I must confess I've never had to do this, however, I might have a couple of suggestions. One would be to try using a long (say four to five foot) cheater bar/pipe on your wrench handle to use leverage instead of force. Also, perhaps judicious use of heat on the bottom bracket shell using a heat sink to avoid overheating the metal and paint. This might help the rusted threads to break free. Best of luck to you!
I once removed a Shimano square taper from a heavily abused Diamondback frame with soaking it in penetrant (like you) then going at it with a Wrench Force BB tool hooked up to a 1/2" impact wrench. Took a couple of seconds then slowly started to back its way out. Good luck with whatever you try, though!
In addition to the fine advice you've been given (longest lever available, heat on bb, impact wrench), I would add two ideas:
1) I've always had better luck if a buddy can hold the bike straight, on its wheels, as if someone was riding it. This way you can put all your weigth into it.
2) You might get'er done by securing the bb tool into place so as to get better torque and avoid constant slipping. If my memory serves me right, you'd need an 8MM hex bolt and a few washers. Put the hex bolt and washers through the bb tool and screw it into place. When it's tight, tell your buddy to hold the bike (promise a beer if he holds the bike like a champ until it's done) and put all your might into it.
Good luck GT, that bike's a beaut!
Remove seat, pour coka cola down seat tube plug holes you can find let sit over night then do the bolt the bb tool in with the pedro tool on drive side first and use big wrench with braker bar.. if that doesn't work heat gun on BB shell
apply liquid wrench, set the bottom bracket tool in a bench vise, and use the frame for leverage.
Gumby can get that out. He specializes in such repairs!
ari
Heat will always unstick parts, if you don't care about the finish on the old monkey warm it up with the torch or try something crazy, drop some dry ice down the seat tube or let it sit in the cups of the BB, then give'r with the big wrench
As others have said - heat and leverage.
Step one, find a welder... no no keep reading.
Have the welder tack something substantial to the outside of the BB like a big ass nut. Then take a real breaker bar and hammer the crap out of it while applying the some heat and pressure. You are still at the welder's place right? He has heat for ya... If it don't fix it, alt least it will finish it off for you.
I have nothing but I vote for the coke idea. I just want to see if that works!
Let me correct myself: Spin Doctor makes the BB tool I used, not Wrench Force.
Usually a weak acid is used to dissolve rust. Try diet soda (carbonic acid), vinegar or dilute hydrochloric (sold as muriatic acid in hardware stores). Else you could try CLR cleaner.
I had a stuck BB on a rescued frame. It was a weird Shimano cartridge type that installs from the left. I managed to remove the guts just and apply flame to the stuck bits. Out it came and left a nice toasted effect...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rf_toaster/8712736463
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