How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Or Something Else!

Depending upon your situation, a "plus bike" might prove better than a fat bike.

When considering fat bikes, it might be wise to figure out if something else would be better. Fat bikes, while capable of things that many other type bikes are not, just might be overkill. In some other cases, if your riding never calls out for the capabilities of a fat bike at all, you probably shouldn't even be buying one.

The Case For The "Plus Bike": 

The introduction of tires in the "plus category"- those tires measuring 2.8- 3.0"- has really upended the apple cart, in terms of what might work for those who might have gone with a fat bike. These "mid-fat" platforms in 26". 27.5", and 29" sizes might have enough of the traits of a fat bike without the weight and nimbleness penalties that you may want to get a plus bike instead.

Plus bikes exhibit a modicum of float, have a bit of the stability of fat bikes, yet they tend to keep some of the playful, nimble characteristics of their "regular" tire sized mountain biking siblings. Let's say that you commute in Winter in an area that gets "some" Winter, but isn't socked in with snow all the time. Or let's say that you might be doing a lot of off roading in looser terrain, but a fat bike seems too ponderous. Perhaps you are one of many folks that are sensitive to how far apart your pedals are and fat bikes just hurt you. Then a "plus" bike might actually be a better choice.

Maybe a "regular mtb" will get you where you want to go.

The Case For The "Regular Mountain Bike":

Then there might be a lot of great reasons not to buy a fat bike at all. many times a 29"er or a good 27.5"er hard tail will do 90% of what you want and have other good applications that a fat bike doesn't have. They can be really light in comparison to a fat bike at many price points. Wheels can be far lighter and this may be a great reason to stick with a regular mtb. The aforementioned "Q" factor issues that fat bikes have are non-issues with regular mtb's, plus a mtb can usually adapt to road and gravel uses better than a fat bike can.

Prices for tires? That is a huge advantage with regular mtb's and choices are far greater in that realm as well. Fenders, racks, and other accessory items are often easier to get and fit to regular mtb's also. When it comes to suspension, regular mtb's have fat bikes beat hands down. That isn't even a question.

Now of course, you could get a fat bike anyway, and add it to your quiver of bikes, but for the person for whom a fat bike is maybe an iffy proposition, these alternatives might prove to be better choices in the end.
 

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Or Something Else!

Depending upon your situation, a "plus bike" might prove better than a fat bike.

When considering fat bikes, it might be wise to figure out if something else would be better. Fat bikes, while capable of things that many other type bikes are not, just might be overkill. In some other cases, if your riding never calls out for the capabilities of a fat bike at all, you probably shouldn't even be buying one.

The Case For The "Plus Bike": 

The introduction of tires in the "plus category"- those tires measuring 2.8- 3.0"- has really upended the apple cart, in terms of what might work for those who might have gone with a fat bike. These "mid-fat" platforms in 26". 27.5", and 29" sizes might have enough of the traits of a fat bike without the weight and nimbleness penalties that you may want to get a plus bike instead.

Plus bikes exhibit a modicum of float, have a bit of the stability of fat bikes, yet they tend to keep some of the playful, nimble characteristics of their "regular" tire sized mountain biking siblings. Let's say that you commute in Winter in an area that gets "some" Winter, but isn't socked in with snow all the time. Or let's say that you might be doing a lot of off roading in looser terrain, but a fat bike seems too ponderous. Perhaps you are one of many folks that are sensitive to how far apart your pedals are and fat bikes just hurt you. Then a "plus" bike might actually be a better choice.

Maybe a "regular mtb" will get you where you want to go.

The Case For The "Regular Mountain Bike":

Then there might be a lot of great reasons not to buy a fat bike at all. many times a 29"er or a good 27.5"er hard tail will do 90% of what you want and have other good applications that a fat bike doesn't have. They can be really light in comparison to a fat bike at many price points. Wheels can be far lighter and this may be a great reason to stick with a regular mtb. The aforementioned "Q" factor issues that fat bikes have are non-issues with regular mtb's, plus a mtb can usually adapt to road and gravel uses better than a fat bike can.

Prices for tires? That is a huge advantage with regular mtb's and choices are far greater in that realm as well. Fenders, racks, and other accessory items are often easier to get and fit to regular mtb's also. When it comes to suspension, regular mtb's have fat bikes beat hands down. That isn't even a question.

Now of course, you could get a fat bike anyway, and add it to your quiver of bikes, but for the person for whom a fat bike is maybe an iffy proposition, these alternatives might prove to be better choices in the end.
 

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Types Of Fat Bikes

The Pugsley started it all, and is now the "odd duck" of fat biking.

Okay, in the last post, (seen here), I covered some inexpensive fat bike choices and gave a few reasons why those may not be the best option to go with for a great fat biking experience. That said, some folks manage to get along with those bikes, which is cool. My experience in this industry for 17 1/2 years shows me that sub-par bikes generally don't impart the best of experiences. I would advise that you shouldn't short change yourself, but go for it if you must. Okay, nuff said about that........

The "OG" Fat Bike: Probably the best deal out there on a used fat bike can be found if you have time to scrounge the various internet and Facebook based forums for a used Pugsley. Even just a frame set and a pair of Pugsley-specific wheels will get you most of the way toward a stellar fat bike. Why is the lowly Pugs seemingly so out of fashion? Well, that would be due to its idiosyncrasies which are shared with very few other fat bikes. Long story short, the Pugs has been passed by due to fat bike fashion changes having to do with axle and wheel size standards. Surly closed out its remaining stock of complete Pugsleys last Winter at fire sale prices, which also served to depress the used prices on Surly Pugsleys. Pugs were and still are a great fat bike though, so if you can find one your size, they are generally a great bargain on the used market right now.

The limitations to a Pugsley are many- it is difficult to mount anything larger than 4.0" tires, they don't cotton themselves to suspension forks easily, and "modern fat bike geometry" has made the Pugs a bit of a less playful, more purposeful type fat bike, but they are still good bikes. Special offset wheels are a necessary part for a Pugs and they take standard QR mtb hubs which are not really the best for fat bikes anymore, since through axles are more secure. Despite all of it's oddness, the Pugs still is worth considering.

On One "Fatty Trail" fat bike.

The "Modern Trail Geometry" Fat Bike:

Most fat bikes these days fall under this type, which I like to call the "Modern Trail Geometry" fat bike. These fat bikes take their cues from trail oriented mountain bikes and share similar characteristics. Things like shorter rear ends, longer front ends, slacker head tube angles with a slightly "choppered" out look to them, generally paired with short, stubby stems and wide handle bars. These bikes can be fully rigid or sport the ubiquitous Rock Shox Bluto suspension fork. That fork is the primary fat bike suspension fork, with a few others seen here and there like Cannondale's Lefty, and RST's offering as examples. Anyway, these make peachy fat bikes and do lend themselves to all-year usage well.

While I am here, let's also break down axle length differences. There are the 4" tire class bikes which are identified by their rear axle spacing which is generally 170mm-177mm. (Quick release or through axle) You won't be able to fit the really big, 4.8" to 5" plus tires on wide rims. Generally..... Then there are the 4.8"+ tire class bikes which have 190mm or 197mm rear axle spacing. Again, quick release rear ends are a tiny bit narrower, so 190mm. These will fit the really wide rims and tires the best. Modern Trail Geometry fat bikes have both types of wheel/axle standards, but more often than not everything is gravitating towards the 197 spacing out back and 170/177 is not generally being pushed anymore. Okay, that's enough on that for now, but I'll come back to this later in another post.

A 9-Zero-7 aluminum fat bike

"Expedition Type" Fat Bikes:

I also class some fat bikes as "expedition type" because they follow the characteristics that work best in the harshest conditions and were (mostly) developed to conquer the terrain found in Alaska while carrying the requisite survival gear for deep Winter conditions. Early Salsa Mukluks followed this style and bikes in this class tend to have lots of capacity to carry stuff. Rack mounts on seat stays and forks are common. Longer, more stable rear end geometry is also a hallmark of such bikes which also tend not to have such "choppered out" front ends. I'm being purposefully general in these descriptions, as you can get down in a rabbit hole real fast concerning these traits, but suffice it to say that these are the "pack mules" of the fat biking world.

Again, the rear axle standards vary with the older bikes having the 170/177 rear standard and newer ones widening out to the 197 through axle style to accept the widest tires and rims. Yes, rims vary, and that affects tire width/performance. Again, another post for later. Just understand that for now, you will often find 4.8" tires on 100mm wide rims on these bikes if they are newer. Older bikes in this style were limited to 4.0" tires for the most part. Suspension isn't often seen on these bikes but newer ones can handle that. Older ones- not so much. By the way, there seem to be less and less of this style of fat bikes these days.

Name brands in this style are Fatback, 9 Zero 7, early Mukluks up to the 2015 model year, and a few others. Typically these can now be found popping up on used forums as folks jump in to by the more popular "modern trail geometry" type fat bikes.

A Carbon Beargrease "racing style" fat bike

"Racing Style" Fat Bikes:

Sooner or later companies were going to wave that carbon fiber wand over fat bikes and make them racing machines. Sure enough, we now have such fat bikes in abundance these days. I call them "Racing Style" fat bikes because their primary focus is on light weight and going fast.

Fat bikes can be light? Yes. There are several fat bikes weighing 24lbs or even less these days, which is about the same weight as the average cross country 29"er bike or really light full suspension 29"ers. In other words, really light. Obviously, these bikes are generally really expensive also.

The price of entry is high, but these bikes typically have the snappiest feel and are the most easy to maneuver in tighter single track due to the lack of  mass when compared to other fat bike types. If you can swing one of these bikes into your garage, you'll have a cutting edge fat bike, but they are not necessarily the most robust frames.  In the case of carbon fiber rims, durability can be an issue as well, since a sharp blow to those wide, flattish rims can puncture the structure. (I have seen the evidence of this happening.) So, if you are more the rough and tumble type, perhaps a frame made from metal will be best.

2017 Bucksaw GX-1 by Salsa Cycles

Full Suspension Fat Bikes:

No need to make up a category here! These are pretty self explanatory. Full suspension fat bikes are usually more three season oriented and surprisingly not the first choice for snowy times, but they can do this type of riding. The main thrust of these bikes is mountain biking where the giant rubber tires provide gobs of traction and stability. These traits make going off road in the mountains more fun and less stressful for many riders.

This category of fat bike is dominated by Salsa Cycles and Trek. There are a few other minor players but for the most part, those two companies are the biggest purveyors of this genre. Obviously these are expensive and due to the fairly new nature of these, there are not a lot of bargains to be had, but sometimes used ones pop up, if you are looking.

Okay, so that's the main types of fat bikes out there these days, but there are splinter niches, of course. Fat bike tandems, fat bike tricycles, fat bike recumbents, and more exist and are available. If you want to get your freak on, fat bike wheels and tires seem to be the latest way to be the weirdest.

Next time I post I am going to cover some bicycles you may want to consider that are not fat bikes, but may do a better job for the fat bike curious folks out there.

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Types Of Fat Bikes

The Pugsley started it all, and is now the "odd duck" of fat biking.

Okay, in the last post, (seen here), I covered some inexpensive fat bike choices and gave a few reasons why those may not be the best option to go with for a great fat biking experience. That said, some folks manage to get along with those bikes, which is cool. My experience in this industry for 17 1/2 years shows me that sub-par bikes generally don't impart the best of experiences. I would advise that you shouldn't short change yourself, but go for it if you must. Okay, nuff said about that........

The "OG" Fat Bike: Probably the best deal out there on a used fat bike can be found if you have time to scrounge the various internet and Facebook based forums for a used Pugsley. Even just a frame set and a pair of Pugsley-specific wheels will get you most of the way toward a stellar fat bike. Why is the lowly Pugs seemingly so out of fashion? Well, that would be due to its idiosyncrasies which are shared with very few other fat bikes. Long story short, the Pugs has been passed by due to fat bike fashion changes having to do with axle and wheel size standards. Surly closed out its remaining stock of complete Pugsleys last Winter at fire sale prices, which also served to depress the used prices on Surly Pugsleys. Pugs were and still are a great fat bike though, so if you can find one your size, they are generally a great bargain on the used market right now.

The limitations to a Pugsley are many- it is difficult to mount anything larger than 4.0" tires, they don't cotton themselves to suspension forks easily, and "modern fat bike geometry" has made the Pugs a bit of a less playful, more purposeful type fat bike, but they are still good bikes. Special offset wheels are a necessary part for a Pugs and they take standard QR mtb hubs which are not really the best for fat bikes anymore, since through axles are more secure. Despite all of it's oddness, the Pugs still is worth considering.

On One "Fatty Trail" fat bike.

The "Modern Trail Geometry" Fat Bike:

Most fat bikes these days fall under this type, which I like to call the "Modern Trail Geometry" fat bike. These fat bikes take their cues from trail oriented mountain bikes and share similar characteristics. Things like shorter rear ends, longer front ends, slacker head tube angles with a slightly "choppered" out look to them, generally paired with short, stubby stems and wide handle bars. These bikes can be fully rigid or sport the ubiquitous Rock Shox Bluto suspension fork. That fork is the primary fat bike suspension fork, with a few others seen here and there like Cannondale's Lefty, and RST's offering as examples. Anyway, these make peachy fat bikes and do lend themselves to all-year usage well.

While I am here, let's also break down axle length differences. There are the 4" tire class bikes which are identified by their rear axle spacing which is generally 170mm-177mm. (Quick release or through axle) You won't be able to fit the really big, 4.8" to 5" plus tires on wide rims. Generally..... Then there are the 4.8"+ tire class bikes which have 190mm or 197mm rear axle spacing. Again, quick release rear ends are a tiny bit narrower, so 190mm. These will fit the really wide rims and tires the best. Modern Trail Geometry fat bikes have both types of wheel/axle standards, but more often than not everything is gravitating towards the 197 spacing out back and 170/177 is not generally being pushed anymore. Okay, that's enough on that for now, but I'll come back to this later in another post.

A 9-Zero-7 aluminum fat bike

"Expedition Type" Fat Bikes:

I also class some fat bikes as "expedition type" because they follow the characteristics that work best in the harshest conditions and were (mostly) developed to conquer the terrain found in Alaska while carrying the requisite survival gear for deep Winter conditions. Early Salsa Mukluks followed this style and bikes in this class tend to have lots of capacity to carry stuff. Rack mounts on seat stays and forks are common. Longer, more stable rear end geometry is also a hallmark of such bikes which also tend not to have such "choppered out" front ends. I'm being purposefully general in these descriptions, as you can get down in a rabbit hole real fast concerning these traits, but suffice it to say that these are the "pack mules" of the fat biking world.

Again, the rear axle standards vary with the older bikes having the 170/177 rear standard and newer ones widening out to the 197 through axle style to accept the widest tires and rims. Yes, rims vary, and that affects tire width/performance. Again, another post for later. Just understand that for now, you will often find 4.8" tires on 100mm wide rims on these bikes if they are newer. Older bikes in this style were limited to 4.0" tires for the most part. Suspension isn't often seen on these bikes but newer ones can handle that. Older ones- not so much. By the way, there seem to be less and less of this style of fat bikes these days.

Name brands in this style are Fatback, 9 Zero 7, early Mukluks up to the 2015 model year, and a few others. Typically these can now be found popping up on used forums as folks jump in to by the more popular "modern trail geometry" type fat bikes.

A Carbon Beargrease "racing style" fat bike

"Racing Style" Fat Bikes:

Sooner or later companies were going to wave that carbon fiber wand over fat bikes and make them racing machines. Sure enough, we now have such fat bikes in abundance these days. I call them "Racing Style" fat bikes because their primary focus is on light weight and going fast.

Fat bikes can be light? Yes. There are several fat bikes weighing 24lbs or even less these days, which is about the same weight as the average cross country 29"er bike or really light full suspension 29"ers. In other words, really light. Obviously, these bikes are generally really expensive also.

The price of entry is high, but these bikes typically have the snappiest feel and are the most easy to maneuver in tighter single track due to the lack of  mass when compared to other fat bike types. If you can swing one of these bikes into your garage, you'll have a cutting edge fat bike, but they are not necessarily the most robust frames.  In the case of carbon fiber rims, durability can be an issue as well, since a sharp blow to those wide, flattish rims can puncture the structure. (I have seen the evidence of this happening.) So, if you are more the rough and tumble type, perhaps a frame made from metal will be best.

2017 Bucksaw GX-1 by Salsa Cycles

Full Suspension Fat Bikes:

No need to make up a category here! These are pretty self explanatory. Full suspension fat bikes are usually more three season oriented and surprisingly not the first choice for snowy times, but they can do this type of riding. The main thrust of these bikes is mountain biking where the giant rubber tires provide gobs of traction and stability. These traits make going off road in the mountains more fun and less stressful for many riders.

This category of fat bike is dominated by Salsa Cycles and Trek. There are a few other minor players but for the most part, those two companies are the biggest purveyors of this genre. Obviously these are expensive and due to the fairly new nature of these, there are not a lot of bargains to be had, but sometimes used ones pop up, if you are looking.

Okay, so that's the main types of fat bikes out there these days, but there are splinter niches, of course. Fat bike tandems, fat bike tricycles, fat bike recumbents, and more exist and are available. If you want to get your freak on, fat bike wheels and tires seem to be the latest way to be the weirdest.

Next time I post I am going to cover some bicycles you may want to consider that are not fat bikes, but may do a better job for the fat bike curious folks out there.

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Cheap, Used, Or New?

MallWart Fat

Wading into getting a fat bike can be a big chore, and a big commitment. (No pun intended) Questions abound, and maybe none more so than, "Will I even like this sort of thing?" That's a legitimate question, and one that deserves looking in to. So, let's put answering that on hold a minute to see just what you can find out there for fat bikes.

First off, the "big box" stores figured out fat bikes were a thing pretty quickly and had knock-off, "fat bike-like objects" produced. These were a cult favorite for a bit, but it didn't take long to find out for many that these were sub-par for the fun at hand. Heavy, laden with cheap, easy-fail parts, these rigs are not going allow you to realize the best experience on a fat bike, or on a bicycle period. They are essentially throw-away toys.

Then you move into what I call the digital realm of commerce. There are several on-line sources for fat bikes that range in price from $400.00 to over a thousand dollars and as you start to dig into the spec and geometry on these bikes, you find as many things to dislike as there are to like. Parts that you might be unfamiliar with, like bottom brackets, hubs, or brakes are glossed over in the spec sheet with generalizations or omitted completely. This is because, well.....the bottom line is that most of the time these parts are sub-standard bits. Are you one to wrench on your own stuff and enjoy massive upgrading? Then these can be fodder for that, but the vast majority of fat bike curious folks will not be this person.

Bikes Direct Boris

The bottom line is that these types of rigs are mostly okay for recreational uses and maybe for some occasional off roading, but you have to be savvy and get the right bike. Some have poor geometry, (I know because I've actually ridden some of these rigs), and almost all of these bikes come with heavy wheels and sluggish tires. You'll get a modicum of the fat biking experience here, but this is not the best place to start out in my opinion.

Once you start getting into the $1000.00 and up price point, you have a couple paths to diverge upon at your disposal. Here you will start to find used bikes that were much more expensive and high quality at good prices. Used Pugsleys, Mukluks, Specialized Fat Boys, and more start to pop up. There is always the risk that you are buying someone elses problems when you buy used, but I've seen good deals go down on the used market place. If you are a beginner, you may want to have a bike-smart friend check out what you are looking at first on the used market.

The other path, of course, is the bike shop, and you start to get into some very nice equipment and the newest, cutting edge fat bike developments. There are a few things to understand when you start looking at new rigs, and this goes for used as well. In the next post, I'll start to dissect what the differences are and why they might matter to you as a first time fat bike buyer. 

But before that, let's answer our question posed up top. In many ways, whether or not you like fat biking will be predetermined by the first bike you get. Cheap, sub-par fat bikes may do more negative than positive in terms of encouraging you to push and find the fun in fat biking. Then again- you don't know what you don't know. If that is the case, you'll be amazed when and if you ever get aboard a higher quality rig. In the end, I've never heard anyone say they spent too much. Poor quality is always remembered long after the price is paid, so keep that bit in mind.

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Cheap, Used, Or New?

MallWart Fat

Wading into getting a fat bike can be a big chore, and a big commitment. (No pun intended) Questions abound, and maybe none more so than, "Will I even like this sort of thing?" That's a legitimate question, and one that deserves looking in to. So, let's put answering that on hold a minute to see just what you can find out there for fat bikes.

First off, the "big box" stores figured out fat bikes were a thing pretty quickly and had knock-off, "fat bike-like objects" produced. These were a cult favorite for a bit, but it didn't take long to find out for many that these were sub-par for the fun at hand. Heavy, laden with cheap, easy-fail parts, these rigs are not going allow you to realize the best experience on a fat bike, or on a bicycle period. They are essentially throw-away toys.

Then you move into what I call the digital realm of commerce. There are several on-line sources for fat bikes that range in price from $400.00 to over a thousand dollars and as you start to dig into the spec and geometry on these bikes, you find as many things to dislike as there are to like. Parts that you might be unfamiliar with, like bottom brackets, hubs, or brakes are glossed over in the spec sheet with generalizations or omitted completely. This is because, well.....the bottom line is that most of the time these parts are sub-standard bits. Are you one to wrench on your own stuff and enjoy massive upgrading? Then these can be fodder for that, but the vast majority of fat bike curious folks will not be this person.

Bikes Direct Boris

The bottom line is that these types of rigs are mostly okay for recreational uses and maybe for some occasional off roading, but you have to be savvy and get the right bike. Some have poor geometry, (I know because I've actually ridden some of these rigs), and almost all of these bikes come with heavy wheels and sluggish tires. You'll get a modicum of the fat biking experience here, but this is not the best place to start out in my opinion.

Once you start getting into the $1000.00 and up price point, you have a couple paths to diverge upon at your disposal. Here you will start to find used bikes that were much more expensive and high quality at good prices. Used Pugsleys, Mukluks, Specialized Fat Boys, and more start to pop up. There is always the risk that you are buying someone elses problems when you buy used, but I've seen good deals go down on the used market place. If you are a beginner, you may want to have a bike-smart friend check out what you are looking at first on the used market.

The other path, of course, is the bike shop, and you start to get into some very nice equipment and the newest, cutting edge fat bike developments. There are a few things to understand when you start looking at new rigs, and this goes for used as well. In the next post, I'll start to dissect what the differences are and why they might matter to you as a first time fat bike buyer. 

But before that, let's answer our question posed up top. In many ways, whether or not you like fat biking will be predetermined by the first bike you get. Cheap, sub-par fat bikes may do more negative than positive in terms of encouraging you to push and find the fun in fat biking. Then again- you don't know what you don't know. If that is the case, you'll be amazed when and if you ever get aboard a higher quality rig. In the end, I've never heard anyone say they spent too much. Poor quality is always remembered long after the price is paid, so keep that bit in mind.

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: What To Look For

Obviously- You should be looking for the fat tires to make sure you're getting a "fat bike".

When it comes to checking out what is available in fat bikes, things can get a bit overwhelming. There are different width tires, different "axle standards", and there are even front suspended and fully suspended models to choose from. There are steel frames, aluminum frames, and high zoot, carbon and titanium frames out there. What do you do?

Obviously, price can and will be a factor in your decision. Most folks are going to automatically exclude many choices immediately based upon prices. There are different choices to be made here and maybe some that are not fat bikes, so I am going to defer writing about this subject until my next post where I will discuss the various price points and choices within them.

What I am going to do now is list things that you might look for and why in terms of checking out fat bikes. Here's a bullet point list-

• The Tires: Generally, "fat bikes" start out at 3.8"-4.0" tires and then wider. There are not a lot of "in between" tires until you get to 4.6" or so and then there are several really fat tire choices from there till you get to the current fattest size of just over 5 inches wide! Think of width in terms of XC skiing or snow shoeing. Wider is better for heavier folks. Most folks will be just fine on 3.8"-4.0" tires though. If you never see yourself doing anything off trail, or in deeper, unpacked snow, just stick with the 4.0"ers. 
• The Frames: Steel, aluminum, or carbon? Titanium? Can you even feel the difference with those crazy fat tires? Yes. Yes you can, oddly enough. Steel and titanium are going to yield a different ride than aluminum, and carbon is another level altogether. For most folks, an aluminum or steel frame will end up being fine. What is most important is how the frame is equipped and its geometry, which will be covered in my post on prices and what you get for your money.
• Suspension? Really? Yes......really. It makes sense when you think about it. A fat bike tire, while having some give, or suspension, of its own, does not have damping. That quality of controlled rebound is called damping. Think of a basket ball. You toss it down to the floor, and it bounces off the floor. Fat bike tires are similar. They want to bounce back off the trail. Tires not connected to the ground are not a good thing for control and stability at high speed. That's where suspension forks and rear suspension comes in. If you are going to pursue "real mountain biking" with fat tires, you probably should look into a suspended fat bike. Riding just for adventure and fun? Pass the suspension by, as it adds significantly to the costs up front and is higher maintenance. 

Fat bike full suspension bikes are great for trail riding at speed.

• Weight: The cheaper you go, the heavier the bike, to an extent. Really inexpensive fat bikes, like those at the department stores, can weigh in excess of 50 pounds! Typically, a "bike shop" purchased fat bike will weigh somewhere in the 30's for weight. High end, carbon fiber framed fat bikes can weigh as little as 23-24 pounds, but will cost $3,000.00-$6,000.00 or more. Most folks will end up with something in the 30-ish pound weight category which isn't outlandish and is really easy to handle. 
• Intentions and Use: You should examine your intentions and expectations. If you desire a bike that will go through the sloppiest mud, deepest snow, and be able to shake off any nasty tumbles, you'll need to spend more bucks to get that in a fat bike that will last. If you are thinking that you just want to get out and ride all year, maybe do some light trail riding and commuting/recreational rides in inclement conditions or on loose rock, sand, or snow, an entry level bike should do that. Choose wisely. 
• Features: Likewise, features will either add to, or in their absence, take away from your overall experience. Rack mounts will be important for some, but not all fat bikes have them. Suspension, as mentioned above, can be added to some bikes, but not all. Tubeless tires are an option for many fat bikes, and you may want that, but not all are easily compatible with that type of tire set up. Kickstands.......really? Do we even need to say that you just do not put a kickstand on a fat bike unless it is one of those beach cruiser deals. Maybe then. Really, just don't expect a kickstand. 
• Miscellaneous: Trek and one other company do 27.5" diameter based fat bikes. Don't worry too much about that. Those have a marginally different ride quality that won't translate to beginners. They are great bikes though. Then you have the axle standards. Again- If you are a beginner, and just getting into it, don't get all caught up in this. One caveat: Through axles are going to be a better deal than quick releases, but for the recreational cyclists, where it probably isn't a big deal. If you are curious, and haven't tried a fat bike, go to a bike shop and just ride whatever size would fit you. Only then will you understand. Finally, it is a buyers market now. This may sound a bit self-serving, since I work at a shop, but right now fat bikes are in a state of over-supply, which means lowest possible pricing. Get one now if you are even slightly curious. You'll never get better deals than what are out there currently. 

 

You might think, "But wait a minute! All these points sound just like what you might do if you were buying a mountain bike!", and you would be spot on. A fat bike is a mountain bike with fatter tires. It goes further afield than a mountain bike does though. Think about cycling on snowy, icy streets on your mountain bike. Sure, you could do it, but it is sketchy, hard, and ultimately is not fun. You could try riding through that sand, mud, or deeper loose rock, but you usually ride around that stuff. You could try that deer trail. You could try that beach. But you don't, because your mountain bike is not the best at that, and you'll end up walking more than riding. Well, welcome to the power of fat bikes! Those scenarios and more are why a fat bike really is the ultimate all-terrain bicycle.

That said, there are a few points to consider about fat bikes which may be a negative for some of you out there. Fat bikes are not for everyone, and the following may be reasons they are not going to work for you.

• Wider pedal stance: To make a fat bike drive train work around those really wide tires, the pedals are going to be at a wider stance- further outboard from the saddle- than a traditional bike's pedals. This may cause certain bio-mechanical issues for some folks. NOTE: There are a couple of fat bike alternatives to this issue available which I will discuss in later posts. 
• Tires are expensive: Some may want to think about making different scenarios work with different tires on their fat bike, which is totally possible. But consider that fat bike tires are generally $100.00 and up. That might be a deal breaker for some folks.
• Tire pressure is a Really Big Deal: You've got to get into paying attention to tire pressures if you are going to really squeeze the best experience out of a fat bike. This may be too much fuss for some folks. 
• You are going to get really dirty: While this may sound weird to some, if you aren't in to getting really dirty, you may want to stay away from fat bikes. I've had my best ever experiences on a fat bike when I got really dirty. That's because I was doing things in the mud, dirt, wet snow, and sand that only a fat bike is good at. If that is a turn off for you, a fat bike's capabilities might be lost on you. Think about that........

All right. Look for my next post on fat bike prices and what to look for coming up on Sunday.

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: What To Look For

Obviously- You should be looking for the fat tires to make sure you're getting a "fat bike".

When it comes to checking out what is available in fat bikes, things can get a bit overwhelming. There are different width tires, different "axle standards", and there are even front suspended and fully suspended models to choose from. There are steel frames, aluminum frames, and high zoot, carbon and titanium frames out there. What do you do?

Obviously, price can and will be a factor in your decision. Most folks are going to automatically exclude many choices immediately based upon prices. There are different choices to be made here and maybe some that are not fat bikes, so I am going to defer writing about this subject until my next post where I will discuss the various price points and choices within them.

What I am going to do now is list things that you might look for and why in terms of checking out fat bikes. Here's a bullet point list-

• The Tires: Generally, "fat bikes" start out at 3.8"-4.0" tires and then wider. There are not a lot of "in between" tires until you get to 4.6" or so and then there are several really fat tire choices from there till you get to the current fattest size of just over 5 inches wide! Think of width in terms of XC skiing or snow shoeing. Wider is better for heavier folks. Most folks will be just fine on 3.8"-4.0" tires though. If you never see yourself doing anything off trail, or in deeper, unpacked snow, just stick with the 4.0"ers. 
• The Frames: Steel, aluminum, or carbon? Titanium? Can you even feel the difference with those crazy fat tires? Yes. Yes you can, oddly enough. Steel and titanium are going to yield a different ride than aluminum, and carbon is another level altogether. For most folks, an aluminum or steel frame will end up being fine. What is most important is how the frame is equipped and its geometry, which will be covered in my post on prices and what you get for your money.
• Suspension? Really? Yes......really. It makes sense when you think about it. A fat bike tire, while having some give, or suspension, of its own, does not have damping. That quality of controlled rebound is called damping. Think of a basket ball. You toss it down to the floor, and it bounces off the floor. Fat bike tires are similar. They want to bounce back off the trail. Tires not connected to the ground are not a good thing for control and stability at high speed. That's where suspension forks and rear suspension comes in. If you are going to pursue "real mountain biking" with fat tires, you probably should look into a suspended fat bike. Riding just for adventure and fun? Pass the suspension by, as it adds significantly to the costs up front and is higher maintenance. 

Fat bike full suspension bikes are great for trail riding at speed.

• Weight: The cheaper you go, the heavier the bike, to an extent. Really inexpensive fat bikes, like those at the department stores, can weigh in excess of 50 pounds! Typically, a "bike shop" purchased fat bike will weigh somewhere in the 30's for weight. High end, carbon fiber framed fat bikes can weigh as little as 23-24 pounds, but will cost $3,000.00-$6,000.00 or more. Most folks will end up with something in the 30-ish pound weight category which isn't outlandish and is really easy to handle. 
• Intentions and Use: You should examine your intentions and expectations. If you desire a bike that will go through the sloppiest mud, deepest snow, and be able to shake off any nasty tumbles, you'll need to spend more bucks to get that in a fat bike that will last. If you are thinking that you just want to get out and ride all year, maybe do some light trail riding and commuting/recreational rides in inclement conditions or on loose rock, sand, or snow, an entry level bike should do that. Choose wisely. 
• Features: Likewise, features will either add to, or in their absence, take away from your overall experience. Rack mounts will be important for some, but not all fat bikes have them. Suspension, as mentioned above, can be added to some bikes, but not all. Tubeless tires are an option for many fat bikes, and you may want that, but not all are easily compatible with that type of tire set up. Kickstands.......really? Do we even need to say that you just do not put a kickstand on a fat bike unless it is one of those beach cruiser deals. Maybe then. Really, just don't expect a kickstand. 
• Miscellaneous: Trek and one other company do 27.5" diameter based fat bikes. Don't worry too much about that. Those have a marginally different ride quality that won't translate to beginners. They are great bikes though. Then you have the axle standards. Again- If you are a beginner, and just getting into it, don't get all caught up in this. One caveat: Through axles are going to be a better deal than quick releases, but for the recreational cyclists, where it probably isn't a big deal. If you are curious, and haven't tried a fat bike, go to a bike shop and just ride whatever size would fit you. Only then will you understand. Finally, it is a buyers market now. This may sound a bit self-serving, since I work at a shop, but right now fat bikes are in a state of over-supply, which means lowest possible pricing. Get one now if you are even slightly curious. You'll never get better deals than what are out there currently. 

 

You might think, "But wait a minute! All these points sound just like what you might do if you were buying a mountain bike!", and you would be spot on. A fat bike is a mountain bike with fatter tires. It goes further afield than a mountain bike does though. Think about cycling on snowy, icy streets on your mountain bike. Sure, you could do it, but it is sketchy, hard, and ultimately is not fun. You could try riding through that sand, mud, or deeper loose rock, but you usually ride around that stuff. You could try that deer trail. You could try that beach. But you don't, because your mountain bike is not the best at that, and you'll end up walking more than riding. Well, welcome to the power of fat bikes! Those scenarios and more are why a fat bike really is the ultimate all-terrain bicycle.

That said, there are a few points to consider about fat bikes which may be a negative for some of you out there. Fat bikes are not for everyone, and the following may be reasons they are not going to work for you.

• Wider pedal stance: To make a fat bike drive train work around those really wide tires, the pedals are going to be at a wider stance- further outboard from the saddle- than a traditional bike's pedals. This may cause certain bio-mechanical issues for some folks. NOTE: There are a couple of fat bike alternatives to this issue available which I will discuss in later posts. 
• Tires are expensive: Some may want to think about making different scenarios work with different tires on their fat bike, which is totally possible. But consider that fat bike tires are generally $100.00 and up. That might be a deal breaker for some folks.
• Tire pressure is a Really Big Deal: You've got to get into paying attention to tire pressures if you are going to really squeeze the best experience out of a fat bike. This may be too much fuss for some folks. 
• You are going to get really dirty: While this may sound weird to some, if you aren't in to getting really dirty, you may want to stay away from fat bikes. I've had my best ever experiences on a fat bike when I got really dirty. That's because I was doing things in the mud, dirt, wet snow, and sand that only a fat bike is good at. If that is a turn off for you, a fat bike's capabilities might be lost on you. Think about that........

All right. Look for my next post on fat bike prices and what to look for coming up on Sunday.

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Introduction

Fat bikes are not just for Winter

The question came up yesterday- "What do you consider a good first fat bike? What would you look for?". That's a great question, and apparently it isn't easy to find an answer. So, I figured what the heck. I'll answer that! So, this will be a series considering why you, as a cyclist, may want to consider a fat bike and then what to look for in a first fat bike. I'll also cover a few alternatives to fat bikes that may or may not actually work better for you than a fat bike would.

Why get a fat bike? While this wasn't a question asked, I think it bears looking at why you would bother with this idea in the first place. This is probably the number one question that is asked at the shop where I work by folks seeing them on the sales floor.

Obviously, fat tires are a staple component of most forms of off road travel. Motorcycles, 4X4 vehicles, tractors, construction equipment, and more all use big, high volume, low air pressure tires for the optimum grip and flotation. Fat tire bikes were developed as a way to cross desert sand and Arctic snow more easily. Then the custom, one off built bikes and components gave way to commercially available fat bikes in 2005 with the introduction of the parts and components necessary to build your own Surly Pugsley. Then about six years later the lid was taken off Pandora's Box when QBP made turnkey fat bikes available right from the local bike shops. Now all you had to do was plunk down your plastic and walk out with a fat bike.

This all spiraled out of control in the last five years to the point where fat bikes are a ubiquitous product offering with several sub-niches available in most bike shops in North America. However; besides the "nerds" of the cycling world, most common cyclists still don't understand the benefits and fun that can be had by owning one of these corpulent tired bicycles.

The fat bike that basically started it all- the Surly Pugsley.

Okay, okay! Enough with the history! Why get one?!! Well, some of this is hard to portray in words because fat bikes are a different kind of fun. First, let's put down the myth that these bikes are "hard to pedal". I get that they look really heavy, but consider the following, please: Most current fat bikes, probably 90% of them, weigh less than a 1970's era 10 speed bicycle. Almost all fat bikes weigh less than the average "paper boy" cruisers many remember as kids. And, ironically enough, many children bikes weigh more than many fat bikes do. Fat bikes are not hard to pedal folks. It just isn't so.

Secondly, can we just stop saying these are for Winter only? Fat bikes make excellent mountain bikes for lots of folks who are first timers off road, or are coming from a mostly road cycling background and find typical mtb's rather scary. Fat bikes are inherently more stable, have better traction, better comfort, and are usually safer because of these traits. I've seen first off road rides by potential fat bike customers turn into love affairs with fat bikes. It happens all the time. Fat bikes are just really good at making off road cycling more fun and less "gnarly". Look.....not everyone wants to take risks, huck, or catch rad air. Get over it. Most folks just want to have a little fun out in the woods. A fat bike is perfect for that.

But speaking of Winter.... Those same stable, well mannered characteristics of fat bikes do play well in Winter's snowy, icy playground. If you are averse to spin cycle classes, trainer rides to no where, or just miss not cycling when the white stuff shows up, you really should consider a fat bike. The "need for speed" doesn't have to be the reason to get out and cycle. The "need for getting out and exercising" is obvious for all, especially around the Holidays. A fat bike can render the snowy, icy grip of Winter a moot point. Plus, you are working a bit harder on snowy trails, which burns calories, fat, and keeps the heart pumping better than if you were to sit by a fire and have another eggnog. Look for local cyclists who have treaded out a "groomed surface" to ride on, and get out and explore. Or, just go see Christmas lights in your neighborhood, or savor a sip from a flask on New Year's Eve while fat biking. Just have fun, get out, and use the tool that is best for the job in Winter- a fat bike!

So, there are great reasons to own a fat bike. Fitness, being outside all year, going places you cannot go on a "normal" bike, and.......well, just having more fun! I mean, who doesn't like fun? Fat bikes are so much fun, more than most any other bike, I cannot imagine anyone not smiling when they ride one.

The rest of the series will be about fat bikes, the different types, where those types work or don't work best, and why something else entirely might actually be better.

Then I'll get into some deeper aspects of fat bikes. Things like tire pressures, suspension, no suspension, wheel swaps, geometry, and more. I am basing the articles on some questions I have received from a reader and my experiences with fat bikes of my own, with getting my son set up on them, and with various customers of the shop where I work. Plus my own insights from being a bike nerd. You know..... I read and think entirely too much about this stuff. I may as well share!

Now, I've got enough material to last a week or so, I think, so I will intersperse the fat bike posts with other things going forward. If you have any specific questions you want me to cover, let me know in the comments section.

Thanks!

How To Choose Your First Fat Bike: Introduction

Fat bikes are not just for Winter

The question came up yesterday- "What do you consider a good first fat bike? What would you look for?". That's a great question, and apparently it isn't easy to find an answer. So, I figured what the heck. I'll answer that! So, this will be a series considering why you, as a cyclist, may want to consider a fat bike and then what to look for in a first fat bike. I'll also cover a few alternatives to fat bikes that may or may not actually work better for you than a fat bike would.

Why get a fat bike? While this wasn't a question asked, I think it bears looking at why you would bother with this idea in the first place. This is probably the number one question that is asked at the shop where I work by folks seeing them on the sales floor.

Obviously, fat tires are a staple component of most forms of off road travel. Motorcycles, 4X4 vehicles, tractors, construction equipment, and more all use big, high volume, low air pressure tires for the optimum grip and flotation. Fat tire bikes were developed as a way to cross desert sand and Arctic snow more easily. Then the custom, one off built bikes and components gave way to commercially available fat bikes in 2005 with the introduction of the parts and components necessary to build your own Surly Pugsley. Then about six years later the lid was taken off Pandora's Box when QBP made turnkey fat bikes available right from the local bike shops. Now all you had to do was plunk down your plastic and walk out with a fat bike.

This all spiraled out of control in the last five years to the point where fat bikes are a ubiquitous product offering with several sub-niches available in most bike shops in North America. However; besides the "nerds" of the cycling world, most common cyclists still don't understand the benefits and fun that can be had by owning one of these corpulent tired bicycles.

The fat bike that basically started it all- the Surly Pugsley.

Okay, okay! Enough with the history! Why get one?!! Well, some of this is hard to portray in words because fat bikes are a different kind of fun. First, let's put down the myth that these bikes are "hard to pedal". I get that they look really heavy, but consider the following, please: Most current fat bikes, probably 90% of them, weigh less than a 1970's era 10 speed bicycle. Almost all fat bikes weigh less than the average "paper boy" cruisers many remember as kids. And, ironically enough, many children bikes weigh more than many fat bikes do. Fat bikes are not hard to pedal folks. It just isn't so.

Secondly, can we just stop saying these are for Winter only? Fat bikes make excellent mountain bikes for lots of folks who are first timers off road, or are coming from a mostly road cycling background and find typical mtb's rather scary. Fat bikes are inherently more stable, have better traction, better comfort, and are usually safer because of these traits. I've seen first off road rides by potential fat bike customers turn into love affairs with fat bikes. It happens all the time. Fat bikes are just really good at making off road cycling more fun and less "gnarly". Look.....not everyone wants to take risks, huck, or catch rad air. Get over it. Most folks just want to have a little fun out in the woods. A fat bike is perfect for that.

But speaking of Winter.... Those same stable, well mannered characteristics of fat bikes do play well in Winter's snowy, icy playground. If you are averse to spin cycle classes, trainer rides to no where, or just miss not cycling when the white stuff shows up, you really should consider a fat bike. The "need for speed" doesn't have to be the reason to get out and cycle. The "need for getting out and exercising" is obvious for all, especially around the Holidays. A fat bike can render the snowy, icy grip of Winter a moot point. Plus, you are working a bit harder on snowy trails, which burns calories, fat, and keeps the heart pumping better than if you were to sit by a fire and have another eggnog. Look for local cyclists who have treaded out a "groomed surface" to ride on, and get out and explore. Or, just go see Christmas lights in your neighborhood, or savor a sip from a flask on New Year's Eve while fat biking. Just have fun, get out, and use the tool that is best for the job in Winter- a fat bike!

So, there are great reasons to own a fat bike. Fitness, being outside all year, going places you cannot go on a "normal" bike, and.......well, just having more fun! I mean, who doesn't like fun? Fat bikes are so much fun, more than most any other bike, I cannot imagine anyone not smiling when they ride one.

The rest of the series will be about fat bikes, the different types, where those types work or don't work best, and why something else entirely might actually be better.

Then I'll get into some deeper aspects of fat bikes. Things like tire pressures, suspension, no suspension, wheel swaps, geometry, and more. I am basing the articles on some questions I have received from a reader and my experiences with fat bikes of my own, with getting my son set up on them, and with various customers of the shop where I work. Plus my own insights from being a bike nerd. You know..... I read and think entirely too much about this stuff. I may as well share!

Now, I've got enough material to last a week or so, I think, so I will intersperse the fat bike posts with other things going forward. If you have any specific questions you want me to cover, let me know in the comments section.

Thanks!