Review: Kuat Piston Pro Two Bike Rack

Note: Guitar Ted bought the Kuat Piston Pro car rack and is not being paid, nor bribed for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's 

Your welcome when opening up the box

As reported in the "Rack Me" series, I chose to purchase a Kuat Piston Pro two bike hitch rack for my 2016 Toyota 4Runner with a 2" receiver hitch. I recently unboxed it, assembled it, and evaluated the assembly process. . 

The key feature here is the two-tool assembly and the simplicity of the process. There are a couple of steps which make doing the job a bit easier. I'll get around to this in this article. 

I didn't strictly time myself, but I 'think' this took about a half an hour from unboxing to finished, usable rack. This should give you somewhat of an idea of how easy the process is of assembling the rack. 

As with many items these days the instructions are online. I get how this may be a negative for some who would rather look at a piece of paper. However; the QR code works, the online instructions are clear and easy to read, and there is also a video for those who learn better by seeing. 

In defense of electronic, online instructions I will say this. They are paper-less. Good for the environment? Possibly. But they save money for consumers, and they are immediately updatable. The latter is shown in this example: The retaining arms are marked in increments reflecting the popular wheel sizes of 29"/700c, 27.5", and 26" wheel diameters. But the online instructions already say this rack is compatible with the new 32" wheels. Furthermore the online instructions indicated a running change would be made to the printed wheel size indications on the rack in the future. 

Obviously this would be impossible to communicate had the rack shipped with printed instructions. So, I appreciated this information and gaining the understanding my rack is "future-proofed" should I decide to get a 32"er. (Also - It pays to read the instructions first.....sometimes!) 

The box is rather large and heavy. I recommend two people handle it.

Contents of said box.The bag has the tools in it.

Assembly:

After unboxing the Piston Pro the instructions indicate that it is easier to assemble the rack if you put the receiver end into your hitch first. This is true in practice and what I did. However; the receiver comes out of the box in the "folded up" position, and this is not ideal. 

I would recommend the first thing you do would be to put on the Foot Lever Assembly first, then you can release the Center Beam into a horizontal position. This makes everything else go a lot smoother. 

But if your Piston Pro is like mine, you still have to do one other thing before mounting the Center Beam into your receiver hitch. That would be to take the 8mm safety hex key and loosen the nut in the end of the Center Beam which will allow the Flatlock Cam to retreat into the beam and allow you to push the beam into your receiver hitch. THEN you can tighten the hex nut until the Center Beam is secured. 

Next I'd go ahead and follow the instructions for putting the trays on, but it is a bit easier to do if you remove the safety tabs which hold the OneTap buttons in place and tap these open to allow the retention arms to swing up and out of the way. Be careful not to get bonked on the noggin when releasing the retention arms! 

Otherwise I have no quibbles with the instructions. The assembly is super-easy, in my opinion. You could use a torque wrench, as everything has torque specs, (kudos to Kuat for this), but if you do not have a torque wrench just be careful. I don't think you could over-torque the two tray bolts with the provided 8mm hex key, but just use caution and maybe check on the torque values later when you can get around a torque wrench.  

 

Impressions:

Yeah, this is a simple to use rack. I recall the old Thule T2 Pro and its release lever.  I used to have to lift, jiggle, and futz around with it to move it out of the way when accessing the lift gate. The Kuat works so much better. 

I have to hand it to Kuat for informing buyers via the online portal that this rack will work with a 32"er. Not that I am getting one......yet. Maybe someday. But if I do? I have a rack for that, which is nice to know.  

The Piston Pro with its trick, one touch opening retaining arms is fun, and should make mounting a bike a breeze. I can offset bikes as well simply by maneuvering the retention arms and offsetting the bikes in the trays. This is a cool feature. The old Thule had a fixed bike placement and that was the only option you had to carry a bike. 

The Kuat rack isn't necessarily a whole lot lighter than a Thule T2. Maybe somewhat, but it still is an awkward thing to carry alone. It wasn't terrible, but I wouldn't want a flimsy rack either, so.... 

Next thing to do will be to get some bikes on there and go somewhere to ride. Stay tuned....  

Review: Stan's Products

Note: Stan's Sent over several bicycle products for test/review to Guitar Ted Productions at no charge. Guitar Ted is not being paid, nor bribed, for these reviews. All opinions are Guitar Ted's. 

Last year at about this same time I received a suite of Stan's products for test and review. You may remember some of them. The article from last year can be found HERE. 

This time I received a few different items, but I did get a double-dosage of stuff from last year too. So, I'll be focusing on the newer items in this review versus running over the same old ground again. I do plan on giving updates on the things which were doubled up on, although I will be skipping a detailed introduction. 

So, let's get to what I am doing updates on and then I'll move on to the new stuff on test/review for this season. Okay, so first mention is going to the Bio-Based Bikewash.  Next is the Stan's Fork Boost, which I am probably going to pass on to N.Y. Roll again. (I'll see if he has anything to say about it also.) Then there is the Bio-Based Wet Lube.  

New Items:

I did receive some Stan's Race Day sealant. This is the formula of Stan's famous sealant for tubeless tires which has a 200% increase in sealing crystals over Stan's Original formula. Then Stan's adds in XL-sized crystals to seal even larger tears and punctures.

• Tested and developed with world class athletes Recommended for race day and long-distance event use
• Improved sealing capabilities compared to Original Tubeless Sealant formula
• 200% more sealing crystal than our Original formula, with added XL-sized crystals
• Must be poured directly into tire–not compatible with injector or other valve install methods

Next up we have the Universal + Valves for tubeless tire set up. These are not the funky ExoCore type valves I tested last year. These are more standard valves with a few unique features. 

A high-flow base compatible with tire inserts is here along with an elliptical seat which is claimed to work in any rim well shape. The valves come with a chunky, press-on aluminum cap to protect the valve core. The locking nut has an o-ring to help prevent loosening. 

Next up we have the Exo-Core Housing Kit.  By removing the Presta valve core from a Universal+ valve one can convert to full Exo-Core valve benefits. This includes the anti-clog feature and tool-less valve core removal design. 

The Stan's Sealant Injector is up next which features a 150ml capacity for those large volume tires. A special end fits on the surgical rubber hose to allow for drip-free sealant application. Not compatible with the Race Day formula. (I have some standard Stan's to use with the injector, so no worries.) 

The Stan's Sealant Injector has a Lifetime Warranty as well, making it a great investment at under 20 bucks.

Finally we have the Original DART Tool. This is Stan's take on a tubeless plug for sealing up larger punctures and certain tears. This tool has been updated in 2025. It now features a stainless steel injector shaft. 

There are two DARTS in each tool, with more DARTs available separately. The base of the DART tool also functions as a Presta valve removal tool. 

Lubricant Update: Last year I was running Stan's Bio-Based Dry Lubricant in the Guitar Ted Lube-Off. I will be updating that test in the coming weeks, so stay tuned for news on that front soon. 

Next... 

There will be some testing going on and I will be back with updates on the things I have used. The DART tool is kind of an outlier here as you have to wait until a natural puncture occurs and to be completely honest, those are rare for me. Maybe I need to run my MTB around when the winds have knocked off some Hawthorn needles and Honey Locust's thorns. . We will see..... 

Review: Aeron TPU Tubes

 Note: Guitar Ted received Aeron TPU tubes and a patch kit at no charge for test and review from Aeron. Guitar Ted is not being paid, nor bribed for this review and all opinions are Guitar Ted's. 

I mentioned in a recent FN&V article here that I was receiving some Aeron TPU tubes for testing. Those tubes, and a patch kit, have arrived so now it is time to let you readers know what these TPU tubes are all about. 

Aeron has three levels of TPU tubes available. The Superlite Race AL, The ExtraLite Protect AL, and the ExtraLite Protect. Essentially the differences are that the SuperLite has a thinner TPU than the other two. The ExtraLite Protect AL has an aluminum valve stem while the ExtraLite Protect has a polymer valve stem and costs slightly less. 

Prices are $29.95 USD for the SuperLite Race AL and ExtraLite Protect AL and $24.95 USD for the ExtraLite Protect.

You can check out the range on the Aeron site HERE. 

Aeron TPU patch kit contents

Why TPU? Why Not Run Tubeless? 

This is probably a good place to discuss this, at the beginning, so you will not waste your time with the review if tubeless is your decision no matter what. However; if you have an open mind, there is a good argument to be made for TPU tubes.  

First of all, it is fairly well understood that butyl tubes, the typical "rubber" tubes you probably are familiar with, can puncture and there are several use cases for a different system than a typical tube. For instance, you may ride in an area infested with poky things, like goat heads, or cacti, or glass shards. Tubes are a frustration in these instances because they can fail easily. 

This is where tubeless comes in handy as generally speaking, those poky things will not stop you because the tire self-heals with the aid of sealant. This is great.....when it works. 

Sealant does dry over time, so there is a maintenance factor you get with it. Eventually tires should be cleaned since old sealant cakes up inside tires when it dries out. Valve stems can fail due to the ammonia and latex which is in most sealants. So, you can have this to deal with at times along with the possibility clogged valves at as well.  

Tubeless aficionados put up with this because the ride quality is enhanced by using tires without tubes. Once felt, this can be addictive and hard to think about giving up. On the other hand, tubes can be easily swapped, if the need arises, they hold air well, and there is no sealant maintenance issues, no clogged valves, and no sticky, gooey mess. I won't even get into rim tapes, mounting of tubeless tires, and patching tires when sealant fails to seal up a bigger puncture or tear.  

TPU tubes are far lighter than their butyl counterparts. 

Now what about TPU? How does this material fit in as a tube for a tire? Well, it has a lot going for it. TPU doesn't allow air leakage like a butyl rubber tube does, so it holds pressure for longer than standard tubes and tubeless set ups. But the real advantages come in when you have a failure and need to fix a flat tire.

Remember when I said tubeless is great when it works? Well, there are times when it doesn't. Thus the entire tubeless plug industry. Those plugs are there to help you seal up a leak the sealant cannot manage to seal. Okay.....what's the problem? 

Well, those plugs are great, but you are losing sealant up until the point you get the plug to seal, and this depletes any further protection level should you puncture again. Maybe you get another plug to work, maybe not. 

Of course, you may not have a "plug-sized" hole, because it is a tear, or too big a hole for a plug, and now you've gotta deal with the sealant mess. Now you remember, perhaps, if you are old enough, how you could swap a tube fairly quickly and be on your way again. You could boot a tear with a Power Bar wrapper, (remember those?), or you patched a tube if you weren't in a hurry and kept on truckin'. Do you wish those days were back, but with benefits? This is why you may like TPU tubes. 

They have light weight down. Typically you can save way over 50% in weight over a similar sized butyl rubber tube. You get nearly the same low rolling resistance as tubeless, but none of the downsides. Plus, TPU is less likely to puncture than butyl tubes and the TPU can be patched. Besides, you can swap out a TPU tube in the field, and be on your way again without needing plugs or spraying sealant. Plus TPU is recyclable. So it is a better solution than tubeless from a "green" standpoint.  

UPDATE: I also should mention that any TPU tube should NOT be used with rim brakes. The heat generated by braking on the rim can cause TPU tubes to burst. Only use TPU tubes on disc brake bikes!  

Aeron TPU tube on the left, Tubolito TPU tube on the right. 

TPU's Evolution:

TPU, when it first came out, was not ready for prime time. There were issues with valve stems, which were made of a polymer or TPU material. There were issues with stretching too thin and failures occurred. Early TPU tubes were perhaps too radical in that they were made so thin and lightweight they did not hold up well in real world riding situations. 

As an example, I pulled out an old Tubolito TPU tube I got several years ago. It has a flimsy TPU valve stem, a non-removable valve core, and it was really thin! The "gravel" Tubolito on the right above weighs 33 grams! The Aeron tube weighs 59 grams. The Aeron tube is thicker feeling. It gives me a feeling of confidence in that I won't worry if it will hold up or not. The Tubolito always was in the back of my mind as something which could fail at any moment due to the flimsy feeling material and the sketchy valve stem.   

The Aeron stem is aluminum and has a robust connection with the tube.

Aeron uses a "multi-layer" TPU which you can feel in the hand as a thicker, perhaps tougher material. It is probably why Aeron recommends this TPU tube for anything from a 32mm tire to a 52mm wide tire. Early TPU tubes were not recommended for such a wide range and could split if you pushed them too far in terms of tire width. 

Obviously the aluminum valve stem is much better than the old, flimsy first generation TPU valve stems which, to be honest, were really bad. 

All this to say that TPU tubes have come a long way since the first TPU tubes came out several years ago. 

The Test Set Up:

I'll be putting the Aeron ExtraLite AL TPU tubes in a wheel set I have with different tire sizes for rougher terrain riding. The rear is a Teravail Cannonball 47mm tire while the front is a going to be either a WTB Nineline or Nanoraptor. I have to make sure the tire isn't too wide. 

The next post will show the set up and I'll give you all some first ride impressions. Stay tuned... 

Review: Redshift Sports Top Shelf Flat Bar

Note: Redshift Sports sent out a sample of their Top Shelf Flat Bar for test and review to Guitar Ted Productions at no charge. Guitar Ted is neither being paid, nor bribed, for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's and Redshift Sports has no say or influence on this review. 

Redshift Sports now offers a flat bar style handlebar in the Top Shelf.

  Recently I was asked to try out a new handlebar from Redshift Sports, I was initially thinking this would be another version of their great drop bars, but not this time! Instead, it is a flat bar, with rise, of course, and it is called the Top Shelf Flat Bar. 

The Top Shelf Bar on my 2003 Surly Karate Monkey

What It Is:

The Top Shelf Flat Bar comes in two rises. A 50mm rise and a 70mm rise. (50mm shown) The aluminum bar uses a 800mm width, which can be trimmed down. The bar features a five degree upsweep and a 14 degree backsweep for a comfortable hand and arm position. Claimed weight for a 50mm rise version is 544 grams and the 70mm rise version weighs in at a claimed 552 grams. 

Price for the Top Shelf Flat Bar is $129.99 USD and boasts a Lifetime Warranty. You can see the webpage for this bar HERE.  

Like its drop bar sibling, the Top Shelf Flat Bar has a 31.8mm diameter clamping section for the stem attachment. The top of the handlebar is a continuous hollow bar of 6061 T6 aluminum with a 22.2mm diameter which means this is a great part of the bar for your accessories.

Other riser bar designs often use a smaller diameter crossbar between the riser sections, or have no crossbar at all. This leaves very little room to mount accessories to those types of bars. Redshift avoids this hassle by employing the design they have with this riser flat bar. I think this is smart. 

The Top Shelf Flat Bar is really great for handlebar mounted bags like this one from Velo Orange.

Impressions:

The Top Shelf Flat Handlebar has a nice width, in my opinion. While you can cut it down, I happened to find the stock length "just right" for my Karate Monkey. The width lends a great amount of control. Leverage is perfect for grinding up a hill in single speed mode. 

There are a lot of handlebars with backsweep and everyone has an opinion on how much is too much or not enough. The Top Shelf Flat Bar has 14° of backsweep and I felt it was right in the pocket for my single speed. This amount of sweep feels natural, and not weird when standing and mashing the pedals. 

Thankfully this handlebar is not so stiff it "zings" your hands on sharp hits or abrupt surface changes. In fact, I can detect a little give to the extensions of the bar, and while I'd never mistake this for vibration reduction, it serves as a bit of relief from the pounding meted out by riding rigid. 

 Final Verdict:

This is a great handlebar with a design detail which makes it practical and easy to get along with. The backsweep is in the sweet-spot, the width is great, and the way the top section can be used for accessories is very handy. Plus it rides well and feels natural in the hands.  

 All in all, another hit from a long line of great products from Redshift Sports. It isn't flashy, but it gets the job done and in a smart way.  www.redshiftsports.com

Review: BT OrthoCell Road Tape Update & An Idea

 Note: Ergon sent the SR Allroad saddle and the BT OrthoCell Road handle bar tape to Guitar Ted Productions at no cost for test and review. Ergon has not paid for, nor bribed Guitar Ted for these reviews. All opinions and images, unless noted, belong to Guitar Ted/Guitar Ted Productions.

What It Is & Expectations:

It is time for an update on this review of the Ergon BT OrthoCell Handlebar Tape. You can check back on previous posts on this product by following the link HERE and clicking back to the intro from a link on that post.  

The promise of this handlebar tape is that it will reduce vibrations which are generated by riding over gravel or rough roads. This would be realized as less numbness, less fatigue in the hands, and a reduction in any pain, hopefully. I think this BT OrthoCell tape does do all of these things. 

While BT OrthoCell does not eliminate vibrations, pain, or numbness, it can be a vital element in helping to make a rider more comfortable. It needs to be mentioned that previous physical conditions and ailments a rider brings with them, and how a rider is fit to any particular bicycle will have major implications as to the effectiveness of this product. So, if one goes into using BT OrthoCell tape with a poor fit to a bicycle, or previous ailments which are going to persist whether or not you use any brand of handlebar tape, that person may feel this review is in error. This is something I would expect and understand if it happens. 

An Idea:

One more thing to add. In my years of experience being a retail bicycle mechanic, and after talking with many riders, it is evident many riders spend their time "on the hoods" while using drop bars. 

This is something which struck me as I was using the BT OrthoCell tape. Unless you ride a lot in the drops, (I tend to), or on the tops next to the stem, (I do occasionally), you would miss any benefits of the BT OrthoCell tape. 

So, what if Ergon got with Shimano, or SRAM, or ideally both, and made hoods for their drop bar levers using this OrthoCell material? Wouldn't this be even better? 

Actually, I suggested this very thing to my Ergon contact, so.....maybe someday? I think it would be a stellar idea. It would provide an entire systemic approach to handlebar tape/hood comfort using a material proven to make riding more enjoyable. 

My Thoughts On The BT OrthoCell Tape So Far:

Finally, before I ride off from this update, I did want to mention the tape has a good grip quality. Either with or without gloves,  The great grip qualities come with no tackiness or sticky feelings at all. The "give" in the tape also enhances this quality of the tape. While it has been too cool for any sweat-inducing riding where I could gauge how well the grip is sustained through a sweated surface, I hope to find this out before the final update.

So the BT OrthoCell tape is a good tape for vibration reduction. It is comfortable, but not squishy. It remains firm in the hand, like a good, thick cork/cork-like tape would feel. It is not rubbery, plastic feeling, or slippery. The BT OrthoCell is definitely more "traditional" feeling despite the techy material it is made from. So far, I am quite happy to use it for gravel rides. 

The final update should occur within the next few weeks, hopefully. Thanks for reading this review! 

Review: Ergon SR Allroad Pro Saddle & BT Orthocell Road Tape: First Impressions

 Note: Ergon sent the SR Allroad saddle and the BT OrthoCell Road handle bar tape to Guitar Ted Productions at no cost for test and review. Ergon has not paid for, nor bribed Guitar Ted for these reviews. All opinions and images, unless noted, belong to Guitar Ted/Guitar Ted Productions.

The Ergon SR Allroad Pro saddle and BT Orthocell Road Tape have been installed on my single speed gravel bike, the Honeman Flyer. In this post I will give you my experience regarding the installation of the bar tape and some initial first impressions after a few test rides. 

For the introduction to these products, please see my article HERE. There you will get all the tech information and pricing for these two items.

Installing The BT OrthoCell Tape:

In the past, the Ergon handlebar tapes I have used from the Gravel range have been some of the nicest, longest lasting handlebar tapes I've ever used. Those tapes have also been some of the most difficult tapes to install as well. I've installed handlebar tape as a retail repair mechanic for around thirty years, so I have a lot of experience with many different types of handlebar tapes. Ergon is easily in my top three hardest tapes to install. 

So, it came as a very nice surprise to me when I cracked open the BT OrthoCell Road tape and started working with it and I found it to be......normal. It installs very nicely and quickly, at least from my perspective. It is far easier to install than the previously mentioned Ergon tapes.  So far so good!

The saddle I will mention briefly in terms of installation. It went like any other saddle. Issues regarding the installations of saddles are more predicated upon seat post designs than they are saddle designs. So, no issues at all with the Ergon saddle here. The Whisky Parts Co. seat post? That's another story..... At least the saddle is mounted. 

Initial Ride Impressions:

The subject of any touch-point on a bicycle is fraught with frustrations and multitudinous theories and opinions. You've heard how the reviews of such items are subjective and how "this worked/did not work for me and your mileage may vary. So, what is the point of even trying to review such items, especially saddles? 

First of all, a saddle choice is going to require on-the-bike research and it will be costly.  This is not what you want to hear, and you may balk at this, but I have seen no "easy button" to push to instantly find your perfect saddle. Yes, there are certain things you can do to narrow down your choices. However; the bottom line here is that you will have to ride a saddle for multiple rides (most likely) and for longer rides (over three hours is my baseline) to know a saddle works or does not work. Here are a few points to get you started if you are on a saddle search: 

• Get A Professional Bike Fitting Done: This is paramount if you are serious about cycling and want to be as comfortable, or fast, or both - as possible. This will take a lot of the guess-work out of saddle choice. 
• Find A Sit-Bone Calculator/Guide: If a professional fitting is out of the question, getting to know your sit-bone width is the next thing I'd recommend. You can use various calculators online from most major brand saddle sellers, or you might get this done at certain full-service bike shops. I've used the WTB Fit-Right System to great success in the past. Ergon offers their Saddle Selector as well. 
• Buy Used Saddles: There are a lot of people dissatisfied with their saddle choice selling saddles on the used marketplace. I find these a lot on Facebook Marketplace. I am sure other forums which focus on cycling have classifieds as well which may be mined for saddle research. This will cut down on costs and provide a way to get rid of unsatisfactory saddles as well.  

Whew..... Okay! Now what did I think of this SR Allroad Pro? Well, so far it seems just fine. I've been on several shorter rides and I've noted no glaring faults. I am fine tuning the positioning yet, but hopefully I can speak to how it feels on longer rides when I post a final review on the saddle in a month or so. 

I will say the SR Allroad is probably going to work out for me as long as the longer, three hour plus test comes out well. 

Again, with regard to the BT OrthoCell Tape, I need to put in longer rides on it, but so far I am impressed with how this thinner tape is working. Typically my better experiences have been on tape in the 2mm - 3mm thickness range. This tape is right at 2mm thick, but feels cushier than this thickness would imply. 

The grip is good to very good. I would like to see if it gets slimy-slippery when wet. But my impressions are it will be fine. The BT OrthoCell Tape has a bit of an open pore look and feel to it, so I think it will deal with moisture from water or sweat well. 

Until Next Time:

I will be doing those longer rides and hopefully sussing out what these two products can do for me on gravel and pavement. I would expect a final word in about a month or so. I may post separate reviews, as mentioned in the previous introduction. If I decide to do so, I will link back to each final review here and from each final review for easier reference. 

Thanks for reading Guitar Ted Productions!

The Honeman Flyer: Two Years With A Weirdo

The Honemann Flyer March 2026

 This marks the beginning of Year 3 with the bike I dubbed "The Honeman Flyer", a single speed bicycle built by King Fabrications in California. 

Regular blog readers will know this bike well. I thought I would give my impressions of the bike again in view of my previous comments. If this bike is new to you, I have an AI overview of the bike, which is pretty spot-on, concise, and will serve as a way to bring you up to date:

 "The Honeman Flyer is a custom, single-speed gravel bike built by King Fabrications for Guitar Ted Productions, designed based on the 1930s-era track bike geometry of national champion Willie Honeman. It is a unique, super-smooth riding, -framed bike featuring a slack seat tube and modern components, intended to test the relevance of classic geometry for modern gravel riding."

I'll only add that the geometry and the frame and fork Willie rode to three national championships on the track was built by John "Pop" Brennan.  

My last look at this bike was last December in my "Bikes of 2025" post.  You can check that one out if you'd like to. 

Ben Petty (L) and Guitar Ted riding the Honeman Flyer last October

 I have written a ton about this bike so I won't try to rewrite again things I've covered before. I will say this bike seems to be tied to seat post changes. I went with a carbon Whisky Parts Co. post on this, switching out the old post in early March. About a week ago, to be exact. Early returns are good with the original look being present once again, which I happen to like better. 

I re-wrapped the bars with Ergon AllRoad tape. I also installed the Ergon saddle I recently recieved in for review. Both parts were introduced HERE. The black handlebar tape really looks different. I'm so used to running pink hues for handlebar tape on this bicycle. With all the black additions I think it brings out the black crackle overcoat on the paint job. 

I'll be doing a lot of riding on this bike in 2026. Again, it is one of my better riding bicycles. Li King did a great job choosing tubing and fabricating the design. It's kind of funny, but Li hasn't ever shown or mentioned this bicycle since. I would imagine because it seems too weird for many folks to even contemplate. 

It is not in the latest geometry trends or feature trends for a gravel bike. It won't take anything wider than a 44mm tire. It really should be a 40mm tire. It is steel. It doesn't have gears. No down tube storage box. And that radical rear end of this bike. 

I mean, how does anyone ride a bike like this in 2026? 

Easy - One pedal stroke at a time!

And what about this experiment's relevance to modern day gravel geometry? I'd say everything from the bottom bracket forward is spot on. The back end? Weird. Not relevant at all.  

Anyway, the bike is surprisingly fun to ride, it handles very well for myself, and in the end, this is all that really matters. It suits me very well. I would not expect anyone else to like such a weird bike. To ride, at any rate. It does also look cool, which is good, but yeah - 1980's crackle finish paint is not everyone's cup of tea. 

Weird bike, weird paint job, weirdo rider. Seems like a match made in heaven.  

Review: Redshift Sports Mousetrap Pedal Adapters

The Redshift Sports Mousetrap Pedal Adapter in the wild

Introduction:

Redshift Sports sent over a pair of Mousetrap Pedal Adapters at no charge to Guitar Ted Productions. Guitar Ted was not bribed, nor paid, for this review. All images and opinions are Guitar Ted's unless otherwise noted.  

I have several bicycles. Some of them have flat pedals installed and some do not. Maybe it is just me, but there are days I'd like to ride the bikes without flat pedals and well...... Riding in street shoes on SPD's is not only uncomfortable, but likely dangerous. 

Most likely....

But I would do the deed on street shoes and SPD's at times because I am just in a hurry or I really want to test ride that bike NOW! Going up to slide into SPD compatible shoes is just going to take time and energy. 

Now what if there were a product you could install in seconds which would convert your clipless pedals into flats, look good doing it, and perform well? Now you might call something like this a "better mousetrap. And you know what? This is exactly what Redshift Sports has done. 

The Mousetrap Pedal Adapter:

The Mousetrap Pedal Adapter is a Nylon composite device with a magnet which attaches to the interface of your SPD type pedal, giving it a flat platform which you then can safely and comfortably pedal on. 

Measuring a healthy 80mm x 105mm, there is plenty of space for most feet. The surface is textured to provide some grip for street shoes. (With a rubber soul, don't-cha know ) The stack height of the Mousetraps is 10mm, which should be nearly imperceptible and according to Redshift, make a saddle height adjustment unnecessary. 

Redshift Sports claims a pair of Mousetrap Pedal Adapters weighs about 176 grams. I didn't weigh the pair I have until after they had gotten dirty and they weighed 165 grams. So, that's nice. You can obtain a set of Mousetrap Pedal Adapters now for a price of $59.99/pair. Oh.....and they come in Black/Grey, but there are some limited edition colors too. 

Currently the Mousetrap Pedal Adapters are only compatible with SPD type pedals. However; Redshift Sports says  SPD-SL, Look Keo, and Crank Brothers compatible variants will be coming Fall 2026. 

How The Mousetrap Works:

So, I don't think these could be any easier to use. I was a bit skeptical when I was pitched the idea for the review. I've seen pedal adapters before. You might recall those Shimano "test ride" inserts. I know lots of bicycles are running around with those on one side of a set of SPD pedals, and once they are in there they are nearly impossible to remove.  Was the Mousetrap going to use a similar retention idea? 

The Mousetrap Pedal Adapter showing the tab which interfaces with the SPD pedal 

 Thankfully the Mousetrap does not work like those old Shimano test flats. The Mousetrap has an inner, hinged rectangular part, (on my samples it is the light grey colored bit), which when the front tab is pulled up, the pedal is adapter is ready to be installed, as shown above. Next.....

Place the tab into the leading retention clip on the SPD pedal

 

Then fold over the open part of the Mousetrap Pedal Adapter

And........DONE! Ready to ride!

As I stated above, I don't think this could be done any easier. I installed the adapter with one hand as I took the above images. The Mousetrap comes off just as easily. Well, when you want it to come off. When installed the Mousetrap Pedal Adapter stays put quite nicely. 

Part of the stability of the Mousetrap Pedal Adapters is the magnets embedded into the glass-fiber infused Nylon body. Near as I can tell, there are two magnets in each adapter which land right above the back end of the pedal body. So besides the mechanical connection there is a magnetic one as well. 

Black and grey Mousetraps along with the Limited Edition colors. (Image courtesy of Redshift Sports)

 Riding Impressions:

I've already given it away, but the Mousetrap Pedal Adapter does ride very well. It isn't loose or noisy. It feels pretty secure, although I maybe wouldn't take to doing stunts with these on a bike. No, these adapters are not going to replace your flat pedals, but what they could do for you is open up many options. I'll get to those ideas in a minute. 

I've had the Mousetrap Pedal Adapters for about a month now. I used them for commutes, for the most part, along with some errand riding, and just for bombing around the neighborhood. Again, these adapters feel good, they feel pretty secure, and the diamond pattern molded into the pedal adapter platform is grippy enough for casual pedaling around and maybe a spirited sprint now and then. Rubber soled shoes work best, naturally. I used my PF Flyers, a pair of Keen hiking boots, and a pair of Giant branded MTB shoes with an SPD interface and a rubber sole. 

I have just a couple of nits. One is that the adapters make your pedals hang the Mousetraps face down to the ground. This is a bit of a kludge when the ride requires a lot of stopping and starting. You could buy two sets of Mousetraps and have double-sided platforms. So, if this is really an issue, there is this remedy. Secondly, while Redshift designed these so you wouldn't have to change your saddle height, I think it is a bit noticeable that you have something a bit different going on with regard to leg extension. Now granted, this may be due to shoes. I understand this. I also know I have a sensitivity to saddle height, an almost "Princess and the Pea" level of sensitivity to saddle height changes. So this could be chalked up to Guitar Ted's weirdness.  

I used the Mousetrap Pedal Adapters on a recent gravel ride.

 I even did a gravel ride with the Mousetraps on the bike, using the adapters for about half the ride, and the clipless side for the other half. The Mousetraps stayed in place without any noises or issues at all. I was pretty impressed. 

Comments:

I could see how the Mousetrap Pedal Adapters could be used as a way to make it fun and attractive to use your race bike at a venue to get around with. I know many times big events have a day, or maybe two days, ahead of the event with expos, food, and music. You can easily pop in these adapters and go run about wherever without worrying about slipping off the clipless pedal or fatiguing your feet. Plus you won't have to clomp around in stiff riding shoes. 

Obviously commuting, errands, or fun rides on your SPD equipped bike can now happen for you anytime without the hassle of finding your cycling shoes and putting them on. The Mousetraps are small enough to fit into your pocket, and can be installed and removed in seconds. So, it is something you might even want on a touring bike or bike packing trip for short excursions to the showers in your flip-flops, or for that beer run into town and back. 

Conclusions:

The Mousetrap Pedal Adapters are a very clever idea which was implemented excellently. They are easy to use, effective at what they were designed to do, and they could be applied to many different situations. I found them to be very impressive and useful. They opened up an easy way for me to grab any bike in my stable and ride it in my street shoes. 

It is hard to find anything not to like here. So, I will quit trying and just enjoy them. I'd recommend these to anyone who has a bicycle with a clipless Shimano style pedal who could use a platform pedal now and again. 

Check these adapters out HERE and the other great products Redshift Sports offers at Redshift Sports .  

Clik Valves, Cores, and Pump Head: Final Review

 Note: Guitar Ted received a suite of products from Clik Valve for test and review at no charge. Guitar Ted is not being bribed nor paid for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's.

Clik Valve, a new valve type for bicycles, was introduced last year. Earlier this year I received a set of valves, valve cores, and accessories to test out. My last update on Clik Valve product in April was quite a while ago, so you may want to go back and click the hyperlink to catch up on things. 

If you are a long-time, regular reader of this blog, you probably have already seen my mentions about the Clik Valve over the course of this year. You might have a good guess as to what I think about the Click Valve overall already. But if you are new to this blog and the review of Clik Valve products, read on. 

Another New "Standard"

Yeah....I know it is wearisome and it seems "The Industry" is out to get you to buy something The "Marketing Machine" cooked up. I see your commentary about other so-called innovations and I know how many of you feel. Why do we need another valve standard? Presta is "good enough", and "I'm not changing everything over just because it is a new thing". 

Yep! I get it. However; believe it or not, this valve system is better. Not by just a little bit either. It exceeds the functionality of previous Presta and Schrader valves and it is exceedingly easier to use. This mostly due to how Clik Valve interfaces with inflation devices equipped with compatible Clik Valve pump heads. 

Long-Term Performance:

I've used this new Clik Valve exclusively on one of my gravel bikes while keeping everything else I own the same. Day-in, day-out, Clik Valve is just so much easier to live with, it is simply no contest. On this basis alone I would swap everything over to Clik Valves. 

Kind of Presta, kind of Schrader, uniquely Clik

But in terms of riding, air retention, and maintenance, this valve system is as good or better than Presta in every way. No wonder, since it really is kind of an evolution of the Presta valve when you get a look at how Clik Valve works. 

Downside:

Like anything new which requires specialized accessories, Clik Valve is still a bit of a drag. You cannot just go buy a Clik Valve pump anywhere, although more brands are offering a Clik Valve compatible option. Gauges are available, but again, you just cannot pick one up anywhere. 

The same goes for parts. Valve cores can be purchased for Presta and Schrader vales almost anywhere. Heck, you can scavenge valve cores from old tubes. Clik Valve is still so new and not as ubiquitous as the other two entrenched valve standards.  

However; if Clik Valve continues the momentum it has garnered since its introduction, I see no reason why Clik Valve wouldn't be the preferred inflation valve for cycling within the next decade. Time will tell if brands will support Clik Valve and if consumers demand it. 

Brands like Wolf Tooth (shown) and Lezyne have started offering Clik Valve

Final Verdict:

Clik Valve is a superior system for the inflation of bicycle inner tubes and tubeless systems. Period. There just is no way anyone can convince me otherwise. I wish all bicycles had Clik Valves and were this easy to maintain air pressure. 

Yes, it will be an uphill grind to displace the current entrenched valve standards. But it would be well worth doing so, especially for new and casual cyclists who are often frustrated by Presta valves.  

If you want to give Clik Valve a go, you can get cores which replace your current Presta valve cores and a pump head from Clik Valve. It probably is the least expensive way to check this system out if you have a pump you can dedicate to the system. Or you could purchase a Lezyne, Wolf Tooth, or SKS pump. Some have said a normal Presta valve pump will also work, but those will not "click" easily on the valve and you may as well just be using a Presta Valve at that point. Half the benefit of Clik Valve is the design itself which makes inflation so much easier. But it is nice to know that in a pinch, a Presta valve pump might bail you out. 

As for myself, I will likely start to transition my fleet to Clik Valve. Especially my Surly Big Dummy, which has a rear tire that is frustrating to inflate with the current Presta valve tubes. I'm betting if you give Clik Valve an honest try, you'll be as impressed as I am.  

WW4M: Twin Six Socks

 This is another "WW4M" post. That means "What Works For Me" and it may not work for you. So, take that with the following words into consideration..... Also, I bought the socks you see in today's post at full retail  Twin Six is not aware of this review and all opinions are my own. 

Socks.... You probably wear them on your bicycle rides, but you maybe do not give much thought to them. Well, good socks can really make a difference. Also: Do you want good looking socks? maybe "looks" don't count in your world? Either way, Twin Six has you covered on all bases. 

I've used a LOT of socks from many various sock companies. So, I feel I have a good handle on what works and what doesn't. Well, I definitely know what works for me, and there are two sock brands I will actually lay my money down for, and one of them is Twin Six. 

Twin Six has made socks for cycling since the beginning of their run in 2005. I think their first product was socks, if I am not mistaken. At any rate, even though things have changed a bit since then, the socks have always been durable, fashionable, and a joy to wear all through the years I've worn T-6 stuff. 

Generally speaking you have two choices at Twin Six: Wool or a synthetic blend for material, and plain or showy as far as styling. I like all their socks, really, so I have a wide selection of both styles and both types of materials. My latest batch in is a good example of this. I bought four pair. Two wool and two synthetic blend socks. I have the Masher from the Standard Race Series, the "Freedom Machine", and two pair of the Standard in wool. One black and one grey. Performance blend socks are $17.00 USD and the wool ones are $19.00 USD (at the time of this post)

Twin Six cycling socks are perfect for all-weather conditions. I like the Performance socks for warmer weather and the Wool ones for cooler weather and even in Winter. However; I've used the Performance socks in cold weather and the wool socks in warm weather too. I guess you'd have to decide what feels best for you, but Twin Six socks are good anytime. 

I like the sock height. Not too high and not so low gravel dings me in the shin or gets past the collar of the sock into my shoes. And talk about durable! I usually end up passing Twin Six socks on to Goodwill before I wear them out, and I wear cycling socks for everyday socks. 

My favorites are the wool socks though. I use those exclusively from Fall to Spring's end. They aren't very thick, which, in my opinion, is a good thing, but they keep your feet warm anyway. They also wear quite well, but are not as everlasting as the Performance ones are. 

My latest batch of Twin Six socks has already been worn once, and as always, they are perfect for either cycling or church, or anywhere in between. My favorites are the Freedom Machine ones with all the stars. but I like all of them, obviously, or I wouldn't have ordered them.  

Conclusions:

I'm happy to support the Twin Six crew up there in Minneapolis, Minnesota, and I appreciate the fact the socks are made in the USA. But more than this, I like T-6 socks because they have a certain style which speaks to me and they work. 

I know, socks are boring, but they also are essential. A good working sock is the difference between a good ride and an irritation you cannot forget about. Plus, this is a small business which is based here in the USA. They don't have any pretentious sponsored athletes nor do they really care if they get on the latest gravel fast folks legs. (Well.....maybe they don't!) But whatever- I've found this company to be authentic and they care about their product and customers. Plus, as I said, their stuff just works. 

And that's my story and I'm sticking to it! 

Schwalbe G-One Overland Tires 700 x 50mm: Ride Impressions

 Note: Guitar Ted was gifted these tires by a friend for his Singular Peregrine Mk4 bicycle build. Guitar Ted is not being paid, nor bribed for this review. Schwalbe is unaware of this review and have no input in the content here. All opinions are Guitar Ted's. The introductory post can be seen by clicking HERE.

Now with several rides in over various surfaces I have some performance and ride feel impressions to share. The G-One Overland tires at 50mm remind me of another old favorite tire of mine as well, which I will get to in the post later on. 

Air Pressure:

Everyone should be experimenting with air pressures to find what works the best for their riding style, terrain, and loading scenarios. This can vary with weather as well. So, when I talk about air pressure and tires, I purposely try to be somewhat vague because just sitting on a number for your air pressure - while easy - is wrong. At least from the standpoint of squeezing out the maximum amount of performance you can. Just think about any motorsport racing. Those vehicles never use the same air pressures for everything. Now, of course, if this doesn't matter to you, then by all means, set and forget. 

In my testing I vary the air pressure by allowing it to bleed off naturally over time until I like what I am feeling, then I check it.  Note: I tried using the SILCA and Wolf Tooth pressure calculators. SILCA's was.....I don't know. I couldn't get it to work. Wolf Tooth's works great but it has limited input data fields. So, I know people rave about the online pressure calculators, but they are barely a "guide" and by no means are they a "hard and fast" pressure setting which you would want to live by. Tires vary so much, for instance, that this variable alone would make any online guidance merely a starting point. 

Now, I started with 30psi in each tire and I did not add any air, or even check the pressure, until I felt what I wanted to feel out of these tires, which was a great ride quality with very good rolling resistance. Once the tires started behaving in a manner in which I was pleased with the overall riding performance, I checked the air pressures. I have arrived at a general starting point of 25psi as being where these tires work best for myself. This will change with temperatures, terrain, and if I add or subtract weight from my bike. So, I don't have a number, I have a range and again - This is for myself. Your pressures will vary, and that is as it should be. 

These are a lot of words to say the following: The Schwalbe G-One Overlands are a tire I have to run lower pressures in to get what I want out of them than I would with other gravel tires. You may recall my saying these tires had stiff sidewalls? This is probably the main reason for where I ended up on pressures. A tire with only under-the-tread protection, or no protection belting, would have scored differently. In this area the G-One Overlands are very much like the Hutchinson Touareg tires which also had very stiff casings. (I really liked the Hutch's, by the way)

Rolling Resistance:

In my roll-down testing I found the G-One Overlands to be impressive. I ran these tests over a period of a couple of weeks on the same track using the same methods I have since 2022. The G-One Overlands scored Very Good on pavement and Very Good on the gravel/dirt section of the test as well. Remembering these are 50mm wide and not all that light, with a mind to how stiff the sidewalls are, and I have to say Schwalbe has done an excellent job with the rubber compound and casing construction on this tire. 

This showed itself again anytime I coasted on hard packed gravel, dirt, or on pavement. There just was not any feeling of draggy, slower tires holding me back. Quite the contrary. The Shimano GRX wheels are pretty good wheels, but they are not as good a feeling wheels with other tires,  in terms of rolling resistance, as they are with the G-One Overlands. 

Ride Performance:

There are some who are trying to "categorize gravel" into neat little boxes so they can fit their findings into those categories. Things like "Category 4" gravel. This means nothing to me. 

On my rides I can easily come across five different "categories" of gravel in the first five miles. So, again, trying to make this easy is doing you, and those who read into these so-called "categories of gravel" a disservice. It is not this easy. It is very complicated. Most places I have ridden have their own, unique to the area, challenges which are not found elsewhere. 

I typically will show you or at least say how loose or not the gravel is in my area and you will have to judge for yourself whether or not this is relevant for you. I also ride in alleyways which typically are gravel here, but the gravel is decayed, and smoother. Less loose. I also ride test tires on dirt, sand, broken up pavement, and on pavement, of course. 

Most tires are okay. Some do well in certain areas. Some are not very notable. Overall, the G-One Overland, a tire I'd expect to be good at varying conditions and surface types, is a tire I've found little to complain about. The casing is a rounded crown type of tire, but it is not overly so. Not quite as crowned as the previously mentioned Hutchinson Touareg. This makes for better loose gravel control and feedback. I liked the stability this provided in looser gravel at higher speeds. 

I had feared the smaller, closely spaced tread blocks may be a cause for concern. Usually I find this sort of pattern type to be one which can grab a hold of smaller rocks and chips and fling them in the air. No such trouble was noted with the Overlands. 

During a sandy minimum maintenance road traverse, where the sand was very loose, fine, and deep, the G-One Overlands were stable and flotation was excellent. I was a bit surprised by this, to be honest. Most tires do not work this well in those conditions.

So Far...

At lower pressures, the G-One comes into its own in terms of ride feel. This usually also means you have a compromise in performance somewhere else. Most of the time this comes with a penalty in rolling resistance. However; this is not the case with the G-One Overlands. 

Now, everything I have tried with these tires so far has been done in very dry conditions. We are supposedly getting rain, cooler temperatures, and with this very different chances for testing. In my next, and final update, I hope to add my impressions of the G-One Overlands in softer dirt, mud, and wetter conditions.   

As of now these tires have been a pleasant surprise and since they are a reminder of the Hutchinson Touaregs, this pleases me. I can no longer get Touaregs here, so the G-One Overlands, being somewhat similar, but better, are a great find for myself. If you want an all-around conditions tire for the dry, these would be an excellent tire to consider. We will see what happens when I can try these in moist, wetter conditions.  

Singular Cycles Peregrine Mk4: I'm Done! (For Now)

Can you spot the changes?

 September has been a difficult month for several reasons, but from a riding perspective, it was a bummer month on top of it all. Then on September 12th I received the Peregrine Mk4 frame set. This was a bright spot, and I've had fun so far with the build and with what little riding I could squeeze in during the past couple of weeks. 

The thing was, the arrival of the Peregrine Mk4 coincided with the start of our complete bathroom remodel. As in, tear down to the lathe boards and build back out remodel. 

I had to be available throughout to provide access to the house, get odds and ends during the process, and to consult when problems arose. This meant I could only get away for short neighborhood cruises, for the most part, during this time. And if all this wasn't enough, Mrs. Guitar Ted had a knee procedure to clean up some tears in ligaments and to remove some "foreign bodies" in her left knee. So, I also had to be available for her when she needed me as she recuperated. (She's doing fantastic and is back to work now, by the way.)  

Meanwhile through sharing images of the Peregrine, my friend Ari Andonopoulos decided I needed silver anodized spacers and a handle bar in silver, so I received a few bits to spiff up the bike and make it look great. (Thanks Ari!!) 

So, at this point I think I have everything dialed in for the time being. I doubt any other major changes are in store for the short term. Following are a listing of tweaks and changes made with explanations for each. 

Salsa Cycles Cowchipper Bar, 46cm: I really have gotten on with the Cowchipper over the years and it is probably one of three handle bars I would choose as my best ever flared drop bars. (Ritchey Designs Venturemax, Cowchipper, Luxy Bar) 

Width is appreciated by me, but the recent fad of running really wide flared drops is kind of lost on me. 46cm is plenty of width for this fella! 

I also took the opportunity to rotate everything down and forward from my initial set up. Much better for all hand positions now! The previous set up rendered reaching the levers a bit awkward. Now everything is great in this regard. 

Additionally, but unintended when I chose the Cowchipper, it is the only handlebar, besides maybe the Luxy Bar, which I can ride when I injure my shoulders, as I have recently with my right shoulder. Not sure how I did it, but it was after hauling scrap out of the basement at the Collective and often times I have to hold weight out in front of me while climbing old, narrow stairs. So, I would guess it was when I tweaked something. At any rate..... The Cowchipper helps me keep riding. That's the story there. 

Ti Regulator Post, WTB Solano Saddle: 

I know I mentioned this in my last update on the Peregrine, but here is a bit more detail on this and how it rides. 

First of all, to reiterate, I needed to not have to buy, install, and bleed a new rear brake cable because, I didn't want to do that. Period. No other reason for this decision other than I really despise having to fuss with hydraulic brakes. If Shimano made this group with cable actuated brakes I would be a much happier camper. They don't do this, so here we are. 

So, keeping everything the same from the standpoint of how it was lengthwise off the Standard Rando, I necessarily had to use a stubby stem to use the system as it was. Therefore, to regain my reach, I needed to go with an offset seat post and a saddle which would accommodate some serious setback as well. So, you see the Ti Regulator and WTB Solano saddle has fit my needs perfectly. 

Seated on the bike, this puts my weight a bit off the front wheel and to be honest, it has helped with the shoulder issue so far as a side benefit.  But perhaps less obvious and more importantly, this levers the little bit of seat post extension and causes a bit of flex which translates to more comfort in the rougher road ways and on what little gravel I've been able to tackle so far. 

This seated position also mimics closely what I have on my Honeman Flyer, and I do like this from a seated climbing and just general riding standpoint. Maybe it looks goofy and maybe it won't work for many of you, but I am really pretty happy with it so far. 

I will say if I have to switch rear brake hose out, I will likely put on an 80mm stem and slide the saddle back forward to check out what the bike rides like with a more 'normal' set up, but it is not like I am secretly disappointed now. The opposite is true, actually.  

Just A Word On The G-One Overland Tires:

I will also mention these tires as I am reviewing them now. I want to wait until I can get in some real, decently long gravel rides in before I give a full update. With all which has been going on here, it was difficult, as I mentioned, to complete any real testing.

Now with the remodel finished, Mrs.. Guitar Ted back in swing, and my shoulder getting better, this will hopefully be a time for those rides to start happening again.  

Anyway, the Schwalbes! These are fast, fast tires. A fellow on Facebook, John Karrasch, has been doing some more intense, science based studies on various tires and his findings on the G-One tires seem to corroborate what I am feeling. In my testing, both paved and gravel/dirt, the G-One Overland is quite impressive. I wouldn't say it feels great to ride, but again, a tire which had as stiff a sidewall as these did new probably will break in after a 100 or so miles. We'll see about that! 

Overall:

The Peregrine is a great bike for me. It really seems to do all the things I'll want, and it looks great doing it too! The one time I was able to get out in the country on this bike was before I made some of my most recent changes, but even then I could see the potential and I was happy. Now I just need to get into more long gravel rides. Once this has happened I'll be back with another Peregrine update and - of course - Country Views and Brown Season reports to go along with those rides. 

Stay tuned....