Singular Peregrine Mk4 Build: Part Two

As the build progressed beyond the eccentric bottom bracket issue, I was able to get the crank set installed and the bicycle started to look more finished. 

The Shimano bottom bracket felt smooth and spun nicely with the crank installed. Then I was able to set up the front derailleur at the proper height on the seat tube. Fortunately the Standard Rando and the Peregrine use the same seat tube outside diameter, so the shims which were already in place worked perfectly with the Peregrine. 

I started locking down the cables into their appropriate places. A couple of things of note here. First, I always work rear to front when re-cabling a mechanical drive train which uses full run housings. This allows you to have to use less guesswork on what to leave for length at the back, and when you get up to the shifters you can more easily figure out exact length for your housings with no fear of having to pull some rearward because you did not estimate your rear lengths correctly.

Secondly, the use of removable cable stops allows for the least amount of zip ties possible. I think I used four on the Peregrine's frame and two on the fork. The fewer zip ties the better, in my opinion. It would be neat if someone could make an easy to use metal cable retention system for the stays of a frame, on the order of removable stops like the Peregrine uses on the down tube. 

Arguably the centerpiece of the GRX Limited drive train. Just beautiful!

Did you note the release of the SRAM silver 1987 group? Well, Shimano beat them to the punch using silver anodization by a few years when they introduced GRX Limited. 

Silver ano was the only  choice for drive train bits for decades until the MTB bike revolutionized things with black anodization bits for drive trains. Black then took over everything, which I was dismayed by, if I am honest. So, this silver stuff is welcomed here, and you can see how it contrasts with the British Racing Green frame nicely.  

 The rear derailleur then went on and then the chain. I reused the chain as it was still in good shape and it is mated to the cassette to some degree as well.  Notable was the fact that I had to use a new quick link for the Shimano chain. As a mechanic, I like to test recommendations knowing full well what the outcome may be. I am willing to risk the consequences for my decisions. I thought I'd try to reuse the old quick link, but I never even had the chance to install it because the pin came out on one half of the link and fell to the ground just as I was about to reinstall it.

Maybe that's why you shouldn't reuse those, eh? 

I put both wheels in the frame, mocked up a stack-o-spacers on the steer tube, and fixed the handle bar in place to get a bead on fit. A few measurements, and then I sat on the Peregrine for the first time.

Nailed the saddle height, but this is to be expected. The reach? Hmm..... Different, but still well within my comfort zone. Interestingly the front wheel looks "way out there" compared to my other bicycles. This is probably due to the stubby stem and set back seat post I am using. (A Ritchey Classic, by the way) 

Comparing handle bar height, the Peregrine seems to be well within the range of some other of my bicycles. It is pretty much identical in this manner to my Noble GX5. 

As you can see, there is tons of tire clearance using the WTB Raddler 700 x 44mm tires which were on the T-6 as well before this. You may remember my image of the bare minimum clearance on the Standard Rando using this wheel/tire combination. 

Okay, with the fit looking good, and the mechanical bits coming into place, it is time to finish this build off. I needed to get to the cutting of the steer tube, running the cables to their final destinations, and installing and bleeding the front brake. 

Stay tuned....