Most of the parts from this bike are being used for the Peregrine build. |
The first step in building up the Peregrine Mk4 was to get the Twin Six Standard Rando torn down. This was necessary because most of the parts from this bike were going to be used on the Peregrine.
Even the wheels are going over, and for now, the WTB tires are staying on there as well. The reason for this is to help me contrast and compare the ride of the Peregrine to the Standard Rando v2, which had these wheels on it.
Again, I'll say the internally routed front brake cable is just dumb. You may say it is more "aero". I say, put a channel on the backside of the left fork leg, integrate clips to hold the hose in, and make everyone's lives a lot easier and aero. Internal routing for the average cyclist is just not necessary. It is a step backward for most cyclists and mechanics as well.
Okay......rant over, now on with the build!
There were a couple of things I could not switch over. The head set, for one, was not compatible with the Peregrine, so I got the Chris King 1 1/8th silver head set as seen previously to accommodate this build. The other bit was the bottom bracket.
The Twin Six uses a PF-30 shell, and I have a screw-together Enduro bottom bracket in there now. The Peregrine Mk4 uses a traditional English threaded 68mm bottom bracket. So I was going to need to find if I had one around to use, or if I needed to purchase one.
I had thought I had a Chris King bottom bracket somewhere, but I could not find it. So, while searching for the Chris King I came across a brand new Shimano bottom bracket. These are okay, but their durability and longevity is not so great. I decided to use it up on the Peregrine and when it goes bad, I'll put something nicer in there.
While I could have used the seat post and saddle, along with the stem, I decided against those parts due to their being black in color. I wanted bright, polished parts if I could find them. So, I ended up using the seat post and saddle from the Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross frame, (which is being retired as well), along with a stubby, 60mm Whisky Parts stem which I had on the Singular Gryphon Mk3, ironically, before this.
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Even the through-axles are emblazoned with the brand name! |
The plan being to just swap all these bits wholesale onto the new bike. The front derailleur could not be brought along with this assembly since there was no way the derailleur could pass through the tiny window between the stay bridge and the bottom bracket shell. It simply had to come off as its own bit.
My only concerns were if everything was going to be long enough. The Singular Peregrine runs longer chain stays than does the Standard Rando v2, and the stack heights might have figured into cable length as well. I did a dry run with the wheels on and handle bar in place using a 90mm long Ritchey Classic stem. This looked close, so I was pretty sure the 60mm Whisky stem would give me just enough slack to fit everything and still be able to turn the bike.
Worse case scenario I would have to re-cable and bleed the rear caliper. I still may have to do this, but I cannot determine this just quite yet. I am trying to avoid this, if possible. Again, if I had cable actuated brakes I'd be a lot less reticent to swap every cable housing and cable.
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Dremel to the rescue! |
The frame has an eccentric insert at the bottom bracket. Now these should always be greased, or at least some sort of anti-seize paste should be used here. Since almost every eccentric bottom bracket (EBB), I've ever worked on straight from the box has never been greased, I decided to take a wee peek inside to find if there were a need for some slippery-stuff.
Well, first I had to be able to remove the insert! It was stuck in there as if it were a press fit unit. I tapped on it with the wooden handle of my dead blow hammer and noticed a little movement. I continued with this until I had it removed. Oh!...... Yes, I removed the grub screws. So, don't wonder about that part!
Once I had the insert removed, a very nicely made, Singular branded, black anodized aluminum insert, I tried to see what could be the problem. I noted a varying amount of paint and corrosion treatment. Perhaps this, or a warped eccentric shell from welding were the cause of my issues. Hopefully it was just the paint and coating.
Dremel to the rescue! I used 220 grit sandpaper on a barrel attachment to remove most of the paint and coating. It worked! The EBB went in very nicely with just a bit of effort. I cleaned up everything and layered in a coating of Finish Line Premium Grease. The insert glided right in this time, and I then put on some blue thread locking compound on the grub screws and tightened up those to 6nm.
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With the problem solved the insert went in like a champ. Next - Installation of the crank set. |
In the next installment for this build I will get into those things and more. Stay tuned....