 |
| Recent test ride after fixing up the Ti Muk 2 |
It isn't very hilly where I go and so both brakes didn't need to be 100% efficient. It was something on my mind, but not anything I needed to get to right away. It also did not help that I primarily use the front brake.
However; this Fall I knew I had to give the bike a once over. Check sealant, refresh that, and maybe take a closer look at that brake. I knew what the issue was. It had been compromised by contamination emanating from the shifter box/hub connection for the Rohloff 14 speed internal geared hub.
Like many things, there is always more to the story once you dig into it. I had never addressed the rear brake on this bike before, so I wasn't aware that the Avid BB7 caliper was not able to center over the Rohloff rotor. I could not move the caliper inward enough to get the inner pad to quit rubbing the rotor slightly. I probably did not notice that before because it was lubricated by the internal gear hub oil! Finding that out was kind of a bummer.
The mess had been cleared up, after several applications of degreaser and isopropyl alcohol. But now what? Well, I had somehow acquired a single TRP Spyre SLC caliper along my travels, and I noted that the caliper mounting holes were larger/longer than the Avid's were. I dry fit the caliper and was able to get a good result. So, that fancy-pants caliper is now doing the job of braking in the rear of the Ti Muk 2.
I know....it is a drop bar lever caliper. But I do things you should not do. So, don't follow my lead here. It is not recommended. That said, it is working really well for me. So, that problem has been solved.
Bring it on Winter! I'm ready.
8 comments:
I’m sure you have a short pull brake lever around somewhere, but even with the current lever it should be better than what you had
Sealant check! Check!
Did some long overdue maintenance on mine as well- New chai. Shifting adjustment. Clean the grass out of the derailleur pulleys. Clean, grease, retorque and adjust the alternator plates.
I assume you are using a seatpost shim to get that Ti post to work in your frame?
@S. Fuller - Yes, it does have a shim.
I elongated the holes on a BB7 with a file to get it to center properly on my Rohloff rotor!
Also - Mark, if you ever run across a red RaceFace crankset like that one for standard MTB BB, please think of me!
@Capncavedan - I had given the elongation idea a thought but that caliper I found needed nothing so I took the easy route!
@Capncavedan - I will keep an eye out for you!
Post a Comment