Scene from Andy's Bike Shop (R.I.P.) circa 2020. |
Maybe you are too busy riding to notice, and I do hope this is the case, but there has been a dearth of news and releases this Summer from the bicycle industry.
Of course, there is some activity on the news front, but I've noted a big drop off in press releases across the media and social media sites in the past month, month and a half.
Maybe this is due to all the hullabaloo with tariffs, or maybe it has something to do with consumer habits and slow sales. I would bet it is something of both of those things. But whatever it is, I know this has been one of the quietest Summers from the standpoint of new bicycle releases I've experienced.
Just this week the news I've seen is very slim, and has to do with oddball things like 'unobtanium' 3D printed saddles, a refresh of a full suspension trail e-Bike in aluminum instead of carbon fiber, and a gravel bike introduced earlier this year now available in multiple customer chosen hues.
Big Tires For Gravel And Gearing:
Back in the late 2000's, when triple crank sets were still dominate, the then new 29 inch wheel bike was still finding its way in terms of specific-to-29" wheel components and gear, One of those needs back then was for a lower geared cassette.
The problem was the change in diameter from a 26"er wheel to a 29"er wheel. The larger diameter effectively skewed the then available cassette gearing ranges to a faster/"harder" range. Instead of allowing 29"er riders to scale steeps like a 26"er rider, the lack of lower gearing made riding a 29"er in hilly terrain harder.
Of course, lower gears eventually did become available, 29"ers evolved and left 26"ers in the dust, and all is well now. How does this past experience with the move to larger diameter wheels inform gravel riders today? Does any of this even matter?
My friend, Ari, a bicycle mechanic in the Chicago area, asked about this recently. I went ahead and did some basic calculations using All City's excellent gear calculator page. I found interesting results from comparing different tire widths and how these affect your gear range.
Most riders are considering larger volume tires for gravel.The times when 40mm tires were thought to be the optimum size for gravel is a time long past. Now riders are mostly in the mid-40's for tire widths and even 50mm+ width tires are being eyed for gravel riding and racing in some instances. Does this wider, and therefore larger, diameter tire affect your gearing range in a negative way, like it did for 29"er riders versus their 26"er counterparts back in the day?
The short answer? The effect is negligible. According to my research, which could be wrong, a rider would have to move up 15mm in tire width, (and assuming volume follows at a linear rate), to equal a one tooth difference in gearing. That's a lot, and obviously, moving from 43mm to - let's say 50mm, is even less of a difference.
So, should you sweat the details of gearing if you are moving from a 45mm tire to a 50mm tire? Maybe. I would do so only if you are already feeling as though your gearing is at a limit on the low side at a 45mm tire. Otherwise, I think it is not a big deal.
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SON Ladelux Light and switch/charging port. (Image courtesy of Nabendynam.de) |
A new light with the capability to charge devices via USB has been introduced by SON Nabendynamo. The new Ladelux light also features a high beam setting which is a more full, more long-distance throw light which is switchable to a Low setting via SON's new switching system.
The new light is capable of up to a 14 watt power output which is approximately 4 watts higher than the competition's most powerful models. The "Low" beam is claimed to shine at 150Lux and on high the light has a 200 Lux capability. The light housing also contains a stand alone battery which is charged by the dynamo hub. This battery acts as a buffer between the hub and device which is being charged. The battery, when charged up, provides a smoother delivery of electrons which a hub dynamo is incapable of doing. This intermittent charging directly off a hub dynamo sometimes can damage the batteries in devices and is not an optimal way to charge devices.
The switch is unique as it has a sealed, metal construction and relies on pressure to switch light modes. Therefore there is no possibility for moisture intrusion. The switch features a magnetic cord attachment for charging either Apple devices or any USB C device. For more details see the SON Nabendynamo site HERE.
Comments: Cost for the light alone with switch is approximately $570.00, which isn't cheap by any stretch, but in my experience with SON products, well worth the money. I probably wouldn't need such a full-featured set up, since I don't have a need to charge a device while riding, typically. However; on a cross-country trek, or for a few days of bike packing, this might be an ideal thing to look into. Of course, cords, satellite accessories, the dynamo hub, and labor to build a wheel make this a pretty expensive way to go. That's a big commitment for sure. But if I did this sort of riding which makes a set up like this worthwhile often enough, then it begins to make a lot of sense.
That is a wrap on this week! Have a great weekend and get out and ride a bicycle!
2 comments:
120 lux for the low beam of the SON is brighter than high on most other dynamo lights.
I have been using a B+M light with built in USB charging. Works well for keeping my Wahoo topped off. Not so good for (older) Garmins as they don’t/didn’t support through charging and the GPS unit would shutdown when I stopped.
The high beam is 90 lux with a VERY useful pattern.
Gearing: I ride 650Bx47-55 and 700x38-60 tires on several different bikes, and all geared about the same. At this point in my life I don’t care much about pedaling at top speed (40x11 on my gravel/allroad bikes), and my low is more than adequate for most anything, even in the PNW mountains.
Still running 2x9, mostly 11-46 Microshift cassettes and a 26t inner ring
I add on, my 40/26x11-46 setup has a wider range than the touted 1x12 9-50 or 10-52 cassettes. I am fine with the gear jumps between cogs after years of singlespeeding and I’m not racing
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