Maintenance Of Fat Bike Tubeless Tire - A Pictorial

 CAUTION! If you are easily offended by gross images or scared of seeing "intestinal" type images, do not read further. You've been warned! 

Today I am going to share what it took to check and clean out the old sealant in my front wheel of my Ti Muk 2 fat bike. The detail most important to know here is the sealant has never been cleaned out of this tire since 2019. So, after around six years, I would imagine it would be time to do this job, wouldn't you think? Ha!

Secondly, you may wonder how I dealt with sealant for this tire, (and the rear, by the way). I simply added about 100ml of sealant every Fall for the past five years. yep! I never did anything else. Now, I will also add here the rear wheel was done several weeks ago, and due to the laborious, time consuming peeling of sealant, I wasn't in any big hurry to do the front wheel. So, this was why I waited a while longer, in case any of you regular readers were wondering. 

 

The front wheel of my Ti Muk 2 consistes of a SON dynamo hub laced to a carbon Whisky Co. rim. These were rims which came stock on Beargrease fat bikes circa 2016 or so. The previous owner had these wheels laced up, so as far as any other details of these wheels goes, I am unaware of those. I mounted the Terrene Cake Eater 26" x 4.0" tires in about 2019 or so. These wheels originally had 45NRTH Van Helga tires which I found to be too slow and clunky for my uses. 

Removal of the wheel requires careful disconnection of the two spade connectors near the drop out so the wiring for the dynamo hub can be separated to get the wheel out. Then the Maxle through axle is utilized to release the wheel from the fork. The next step is to break the tire bead from its place on the carbon rim. 

 The first order of business is to remove as much air as you can from the tire. I usually don't take the core out, and in fact, I close the valve when I am finished pushing out air. I cannot say this is an aid, or cool trick to use, but I've always done it this way with fat bike tires. 

To break the bead from its place on the rim I lay the rim against the bench at a slight angle, not allowing a lot of the rim to overhang the bench. This is important for leverage. You want the rim supported at two points closer together so you won't damage the rim. 

Next I use the butt of each hand to apply pressure right at the point where the tire meets the rim at the sidewall facing upward at me. (See where I have my thumb in the image. This is where you want to apply pressure)

Using a downward force at a right angle to the rim, (essentially pushing 'sideways' across the rim), I carefully apply pressure until the tire breaks free. I use my finger to grasp the tire in this process, but I am not really doing anything with force at the fingers. The force is concentrated at the butt end of my hands. Think of how an automobile tire machine works, if you are at all familiar with this type of machine. 

Once the bead breaks free the rest generally will come apart with little effort. When you have pushed the bead on one side all the way around away from the rim edge, flip the wheel and repeat the above process

Next, you will need a tire lever to peel off one bead from the rim. Now in my case, here is where I found a big surprise. The sealant had formed a sort of 'tube' which was acting much like a butyl rubber tube in that it wanted to come out in one piece. So, I went with this situation. 

Here you can see what this looked like. I simply started to look at this as I would a tube replacement. The sealant slipped right out of the tire with little effort. 

Now I know some of you will want to know what I used for sealant for the past five-plus years. The answer to this question is a little complicated and murky. 

I'm pretty sure most of the sealant was WTB sealant. Some of it was Finish Line sealant, because I could see the black additive particles they used as an extra measure to seal up punctures. I am certain the last sealant I put in was Orange Seal for cold weather, and I may have used my own home-brew sealant which is a recipe I have shared here several times and which I call "MG's Sealant". 

Yeah.... I realize many say do not mix sealants. But to my mind, most sealants are more similar than dissimilar, and in practice, mixing sealants has never caused me any negative effects. So, you probably should not do what I did, but also - I am not at all concerned about mixing sealants. So, take all this under advisement and consider what you do carefully in regard to your own sealant use practices. 

After peeling out the sealant I simply remounted the tire, introduced 300ml of new sealant, and aired up the tire again with no further issues. For the record, I used some mixed up sealants again. So, I cannot tell you exactly what I used because I don't even know for certain. But before I discarded the old sealant "tube" I thought I'd weigh it for fun. 

Not bad, eh? I think this is in the range of TPU fat bike tubes, maybe a touch heavier. But I thought it was interesting the sealant did not accumulate to a weight  which was more than it turned out to be. Obviously, this was still far less than a butyl tube would weigh in at for a 26" x 4.0" tire. 

So, there you have it. My maintenance of my front wheel is finished and I am ready for Winter. Also, this might be the bike I end up using for the Virtual Turkey Burn Ride, since we may be getting blasted with Arctic air right around that time. I'd rather ride this bike when, or if, it gets windy and cold.