Some Things I Am Thinking About

I put short-ish cranks on last year.

 It's Winter. Not much of a chance for longer country rides. With the lack of snow, fat biking went out the window as well. So, I've been left with sitting around more than I'd care to and thinking. 

Dangerous activity, I know, but here are a few things I've been thinking about recently which I may or may not delve into further in 2026.  

No particular order here, just a few things I thought I'd share. 

Shorter Cranks: I've been intrigued by this idea over the past year or so. I put on a set of 170mm cranks on my Raleigh Tamland Two last year to try something out which I had not done before. 170mm may not seem "short", I understand, but this is where I was willing to start. If it was somewhat worse than 172.5mm, (my preferred gravel length up until this point), then it couldn't be that much worse. However, say I went with 165mm cranks and did not like them. Well.......

I guess so far I seem to feel a difference in a positive way running 170mm cranks. So, I could see trying 165mm cranks on a gravel bike. Thing is, I am not into 12 and 13 speed drive trains, and well..... Maybe I could set up something in 11 speed, I just have not looked that hard yet. Something I'm still thinking about.... 

Singular Albatross 32"er prototype. Image courtesy of Singular Cycles.

32'er Bikes: So, I've been interested in this entire development on the 32"er platform. Not so much from a mountain biking perspective, but from a gravel riding one.

Of course, no one else seems to be onboard with this idea, so all the prototyping and testing has been centered around off-road type equipment.  

32" seems a no-brainer from a gravel riding perspective to me though. Momentum of those bigger wheels has to be a factor in being able to carry more speed over the rollers here. Additionally the longer tire contact patch will be something which will make vibrations less, and make the bike more stable on fast, loose gravel descents. 

I know MG is getting one of these bikes to try out, and he will probably try it on gravel. I cannot wait to hear his take on this. Until then, I will be dreaming of a drop bar set up for gravel and 32"ers. 

Maybe someday....

Clik Valve

Clik Valve vs BBB CoreCap: Inflation in terms of cycling is a good thing. You know.....for your tires? I know people are keen on this subject bcause of the number of hits I got covering Clik Valve last year. 

I really like the system. It is SUPER easy to use, and otherwise is no issue at all. Yes - You have to have a proper Clik Valve pump head to enjoy all the benefits of Clik Valve. So, in this way, it is a big commitment. 

A competing valve standard has arisen promising big airflow, less clogged valves, and ease of use. It is from BBB and is called CoreCap. 

CoreCap utilizes the Schrader compatibility you already have and is a system which simply replaces a removable Presta valve core. Simple. Could be a winner. 

I can see the benefits from a tubeless user's standpoint. I do not see it as being "easier" to use, because Clik Valve is so stupidly easy to use it would take a miracle to beat it out in terms of ease of usage. However; the standard does require a change which many people will balk at. (Note: You can inflate a Clik Valve equipped tire with a standard pump. You just lose the ease of use.) 

You can read more about the BBB CoreCap on my blogging compatriot's site HERE. Muddy Moles will be testing these out soon, so keep abreast of his updates, or just visit his blog. I have it linked in the right sidebar on this page. 

That's about it from my brain dump today! More thinkering (if the Winter drags on) to come.  

Friday News And Views

Image courtesy of SOMA

SOMA Introduces Big 6 Yokozuna Calipers For Road/Gravel:

An announcement via social media by SOMA Fabrications was made last week which was a bit of a surprise. SOMA is now offering a Yokozuna branded cable pull, hydraulic caliper with six pistons!

SOMA has this to say about this product:

 "Yokozuna BIG6: Quite easily the most powerful hybrid hydraulic ROAD brake from Yokozuna. Just having 6 pistons (vs 2 and 4) and bigger pads doesn’t automatically gives a brake system more power. You have to engineer the brake to push those pistons with more force, too. And the BIG6 does just that! "

The calipers feature three differently sized pistons made from 7075 aluminum. The caliper also ships with compressionless brake housing. The calipers are road pull/short pull specific. The caliper is activated by cable, but the caliper lever pushes mineral oil to activate the pistons in a hybrid type in this hybrid design. Each caliper weighs in at about 160 - 180 grams. Price for each caliper is $295.95. 

You can see more and order these from SOMA's site HERE. 

Comments: Wow! That is a pretty crazy, niche product. I can see maybe using these on a bike like my Gryphon Mk3 if I were doing loaded bikepacking/touring. I could see these coming in clutch in a scenario where you are dealing with steeper terrain and heavier loads. But I don't know if I would need this kind of (potential) power for my typical rides. 

I have a set of TRP Hy/RD calipers and a set of the State Bicycle Co. calipers on bikes which are  both hybrid cable/hydraulic set ups. My take is these types of brakes rely on the housing for the cable to be stiff and compressionless to really get the maximum benefit to this type of design. Another thing I've found is the hybrid type calipers tend to lack modulation and feel more "on - off" than I prefer. 

Also, like previous Yokozuna branded calipers, you can find nearly identical calipers branded as "Juin Tech". But unlike previous examples, the Juin Techs are actually more expensive than SOMA's price on the Big 6 calipers. 

SILCA Confirms Its Products Compatible With Clik Valve:

Thanks to reader "Steve" here, I was pointed to a video from SILCA where Josh from SILCA explains how SILCA pumps are compatible with Clik Valve. 

In my Final Review of the Clik Valve system, I hinted about the possibility of using a Presta Valve pump on a Clik Valve and how this might work.  Well, as it turns out, it does work, but there is something here I hadn't considered which is covered in the SILCA video. 

Since Clik Valve uses a spring-loaded valve, much like a Schrader valve does, the normal Presta pump has to overcome this spring pressure to get the valve open so you can inflate the tire or tube. SILCA claims this amounts to about six to seven psi. So, you have to accommodate for this if you use a straight Presta pump on a Clik Valve. 

Check out the video for the finer details, but the main point for me is the Clik Valve can be inflated with a standard Presta Valve pump. In case of an emergency, a Clik Valve tubeless set up wouldn't be at a disadvantage if you did need some air and you did not have a Clik Valve compatible pump. 

Also, it is very interesting to see SILCA playing around with Clik Valve and having positive things to say about the design. One would imagine a day very soon where SILCA does license the technology.  

Image courtesy of Castelli

Castelli Announces New Winter Glove/Shoe Covers In PolarTec AirCore™:

Last September, in an FN&V post, I wrote about a new waterproof/windproof breathable fabric development which was made in collaboration with PolarTec and Castelli.  Called AirCore™, it promises a better experience riding in wet and cold weather. 

Now this week Castelli announced additional clothing accessories to the jacket announced in September. The new Espresso 2 shoe covers and gloves utilize AirCore fabric in strategic areas to improve upon the item's ability to ward off cold winds and precipitation while remaining comfortable and easy to use. 

For instance, the glove features a YKK zipper to ease the putting on and the taking off of these gloves. The shoe covers also use a zipper with a protector to prevent Achilles irritation. Reflective elements are included in both pieces to enhance visibility in poor lighting conditions or at night.  

Learn more at Castelli's site.  

 Comments: Winter is going to be here soon, so if you want to continue to be outdoors, looking at your clothing strategies is a must. This new AirCore™ stuff seems like a game changer. I'll be keeping an eye on this for future purchases. 

 Right now it seems pretty expensive and, well.....unproven. I'd like to see how it works for others in teh meantime while I continue to use stuff I know works for me now. 

Wolf Tooth "DEL" Mini-Review:

As mentioned last week, N.Y. Roll had ordered a set of the new Wolf Tooth "DEL" pedals in for his girlfriend. Here is a mini-review on them for you straight from Mr. Roll hisself: 

"7 miles in and this is what I can say. Spindle preload is either high or the bearings need to wear in. I think the later. We did not adjustments, slapped em on an went. Her cleat tension adjust is still at factory setting. 

What I think this pedal may do, the grease and bearings will wear in and have less resistance. Also the DELs will be lighter and the riders will learn that they may have a more predictive pedal position for clipping in. I think other companies will follow."

So, there you go! Good stuff, it seems. You can learn more about this pedal and the other two pedals in Wolf Tooth's range by clicking the link HERE.  

C.O.G. 40 Happening On Sunday:

I'm looking forward to riding 40 miles of (mostly) Tama County gravel and Level B Roads this Sunday at 9:00am from Reinbeck, Iowa. This should be a great, end of season, group ride at a casual pace. 

I haven't heard from very many people so this may end up being a small group ride, unless there is a big surprise waiting for me. Who knows? I don't. 

At least the weather is going to cooperate with us with very little chances for any rain, a Sunny sky, and temperatures at the start in the mid 40's rising to a forecast high of 65°F. Light to moderate breezes from the Southeast mean we will get a tailwind for the second half of the loop. 

There will be a full report on Monday as to who showed up, what the highlights were, and what N.Y. Roll is serving at the rest stop at the halfway point. Stay tuned.....

That's a wrap for this week! get out there and ride those bicycles! Even if it is just around the block!  

Clik Valves, Cores, and Pump Head: Final Review

 Note: Guitar Ted received a suite of products from Clik Valve for test and review at no charge. Guitar Ted is not being bribed nor paid for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's.

Clik Valve, a new valve type for bicycles, was introduced last year. Earlier this year I received a set of valves, valve cores, and accessories to test out. My last update on Clik Valve product in April was quite a while ago, so you may want to go back and click the hyperlink to catch up on things. 

If you are a long-time, regular reader of this blog, you probably have already seen my mentions about the Clik Valve over the course of this year. You might have a good guess as to what I think about the Click Valve overall already. But if you are new to this blog and the review of Clik Valve products, read on. 

Another New "Standard"

Yeah....I know it is wearisome and it seems "The Industry" is out to get you to buy something The "Marketing Machine" cooked up. I see your commentary about other so-called innovations and I know how many of you feel. Why do we need another valve standard? Presta is "good enough", and "I'm not changing everything over just because it is a new thing". 

Yep! I get it. However; believe it or not, this valve system is better. Not by just a little bit either. It exceeds the functionality of previous Presta and Schrader valves and it is exceedingly easier to use. This mostly due to how Clik Valve interfaces with inflation devices equipped with compatible Clik Valve pump heads. 

Long-Term Performance:

I've used this new Clik Valve exclusively on one of my gravel bikes while keeping everything else I own the same. Day-in, day-out, Clik Valve is just so much easier to live with, it is simply no contest. On this basis alone I would swap everything over to Clik Valves. 

Kind of Presta, kind of Schrader, uniquely Clik

But in terms of riding, air retention, and maintenance, this valve system is as good or better than Presta in every way. No wonder, since it really is kind of an evolution of the Presta valve when you get a look at how Clik Valve works. 

Downside:

Like anything new which requires specialized accessories, Clik Valve is still a bit of a drag. You cannot just go buy a Clik Valve pump anywhere, although more brands are offering a Clik Valve compatible option. Gauges are available, but again, you just cannot pick one up anywhere. 

The same goes for parts. Valve cores can be purchased for Presta and Schrader vales almost anywhere. Heck, you can scavenge valve cores from old tubes. Clik Valve is still so new and not as ubiquitous as the other two entrenched valve standards.  

However; if Clik Valve continues the momentum it has garnered since its introduction, I see no reason why Clik Valve wouldn't be the preferred inflation valve for cycling within the next decade. Time will tell if brands will support Clik Valve and if consumers demand it. 

Brands like Wolf Tooth (shown) and Lezyne have started offering Clik Valve

Final Verdict:

Clik Valve is a superior system for the inflation of bicycle inner tubes and tubeless systems. Period. There just is no way anyone can convince me otherwise. I wish all bicycles had Clik Valves and were this easy to maintain air pressure. 

Yes, it will be an uphill grind to displace the current entrenched valve standards. But it would be well worth doing so, especially for new and casual cyclists who are often frustrated by Presta valves.  

If you want to give Clik Valve a go, you can get cores which replace your current Presta valve cores and a pump head from Clik Valve. It probably is the least expensive way to check this system out if you have a pump you can dedicate to the system. Or you could purchase a Lezyne, Wolf Tooth, or SKS pump. Some have said a normal Presta valve pump will also work, but those will not "click" easily on the valve and you may as well just be using a Presta Valve at that point. Half the benefit of Clik Valve is the design itself which makes inflation so much easier. But it is nice to know that in a pinch, a Presta valve pump might bail you out. 

As for myself, I will likely start to transition my fleet to Clik Valve. Especially my Surly Big Dummy, which has a rear tire that is frustrating to inflate with the current Presta valve tubes. I'm betting if you give Clik Valve an honest try, you'll be as impressed as I am.  

Following The Numbers...

 The other day I was cruising my stats looking to see what was being read most ehre on "Guitar Ted Productions". The end of the year stats start to take shape around the first part of the second half of the year and I was just curious. I noted an very interesting trend.

First of all, the numbers are crazy. I know.....I say this every year and I would forgive you if you think this is becoming cliche' here, but the post counter doesn't lie. I'm seeing numbers on posts I rarely have ever seen at the end of a year, not to mention seven months in. So, first thing I want to say is "Thank You". It is because of people like you who read this blog who make the numbers what they are.

So, what are you folks reading? It is interesting to note that the biggest numbers all have something to do with inflation. TPU tubes and Clik Valves, to be specific. These posts are dwarfing anything I've ever posted and some of these posts have not been up foe seven months, some only a few months. Yet the numbers right now look like end of year numbers. I cannot fully explain this other than to point to one possibility. 

How we inflate tires on our bicycles and what we use to retain this air is radically changing before our very eyes. Between TPU tubes and the innovative Clik Valve, it is my opinion that people are intrigued by the benefits to the point which excitement over these two components is, dare I say - at fever pitch.

There has always been somewhat of a backlash over tubeless. The tubeless tire set up, the maintenance, the tubeless goo - All of this seems to have an undercurrent of dissatisfaction out there. Tubes just work, but they are prone to failures and they are heavy. In comes the TPU tube promising more robust puncture protection at a fantastic light weight. I don't know for certain, but I think tubeless solutions can be put into some newer TPU tubes now. If not, I am sure that is coming.

Then there is inflation. I know some folks will roll their eyes concerning Clik Valves, but they are soooooooo easy to use it makes Presta valves and Schrader valves look silly. Especially for casual cyclists, I see no reason for anything else but Clik Valves. I would gladly switch over to them, personally, and if the groundswell around Clik Valves continues to grow, I probably will switch.

I'm not going to recount here every advantage Clik Valves have over the other two major valve standards in the US, but I know people are really curious about them judging from my stats. If some of those folks decide to make the switch, and their friends see Clik Valves, and this momentum gets going, we are in for quite the sea change. I'm all for it. 

So, at any rate, I know there is a ton of interest in both of these products and it just feels like this points to big changes on the horizon for tubes and how we fill them.  Apparently Schwalbe is combining Clik Valve with TPU tubes, so when this becomes more commonplace I'm probably going to start switching over more bikes to both standards. What do you think? 

Are Clik Valves, TPU tubes, or both in your future? 

Friday News And Views

 Clik Valve Metal Dust Caps:

Clik Valve now offers metal dust caps for their valves and valve cores. These thread-on metal caps can be had in four different anodized hues. The cap features an integrated valve core removal tool as well.

Clik Valve went with the thread-on metal cap versus their 'click-on' plastic caps so the cap could be capable of taking a hit and not getting knocked off. Plus this thread-on design helps keep dust and dirt out while giving the bike another place to show some color. You can check these caps out HERE. 

Comments: I have been duly impressed by Clik Valve and I fully expect this valve to start gaining more of a foothold on the cycling industry in the months and years to come. It is nice to see companies like SILCA, Wolf Tooth, and Lezyne hop on board with products compatible with Clik Valve. These caps are just icing on teh cake, in a way, to make jumping on this standard a little easier. 

1983 Ross Force 1 MTB:

My job at the Cedar Valley Bicycle Collective can be pretty interesting at times. You just never know what will come in for donations. I've had 1950's and 60's Schwinn cruisers, a late model, all carbon fiber triathlon bike, and odd-ball things you'd never expect to see. One such donation happened last Saturday.

The fellow who donated this 1983 Ross Force 1 mountain bike was the original owner. He purchased it new at a bike shop called Sunshine Cycles in Hudson, Iowa. I happen to know the former owner who verified the dating of the bike for me on Monday.

Fortunately, the bike has all its original equipment intact. Right down to the knock-off Snake Belly tires in 26" X 2.125" width on gold anodized Ukai rims. The drive train is all SunTour and the brakes are DiaCompe levers and cantilevers. Even the saddle is original

The rack is a Blackburn, (natch!) and the bag is an original Cannondale bag. This was from when Cannondale only did bags! Note the frame clips to hold the rear brake cable on. There are also pump mounts which have spring-loaded tips. I've never seen those before. The pump, not shown, is a red anodized Zefal and still is in working condition.The pedals are Shimano DX and in excellent shape. 

My research, which could be wrong, led me to this being built in Allentown Pennsylvania, which tracks with the frame sticker on the bike. The frame is a lugged and brazed frame, but it is high-tensile steel, so not a big deal in this regard. Ross had a high-end frame builder on staff, but most of its bicycles which were produced during this period were of mid to lower quality. This one weighs at least 30+ pounds!

Still, it is a cool time capsule look into what MTB was like in the early 1980's. The original owner said he thought this might be the first MTB in Black Hawk County, Iowa! You can check out the spec and another example of this bike by clicking HERE. 

Image courtesy of Campagnolo

New Super Record From Campagnolo: Portent Of Things To Come For Gravel?

This week saw the introduction of Campagnolo's newest Super Record group. Their range-topping offering has 13 cogs in the cassette and is 100% wireless making it the first group set of its kind available. Campy fans will also note the levers have the famous "Campy thumb shifter" back in the design. 

No doubt, the "star" of this intro is the levers. Featuring a separate lever behind the brake lever for shifting and the aforementioned thumb lever, the wireless shifter uses a CR2032 coin battery in each lever. There is a "Smart Button" which can be configured through the MyCampy app to function as a computer/GPS controller, or to control any Blue Tooth enabled device. The Smart Button can also function as a shifter.

Derailleurs are powered by a battery pack which is the same for front or rear and can be removed from each derailleur for charging. The batteries can also be charged through their USB C port while on the bike as well. 

Comments: "So, big deal, Ted. Why talk about an uber-expensive road group here?" Because digging through the specs, I found some interesting things which could be used in a gravel racing setting. Plus, if you noticed, many of the top riders at Unbound were using 2X set ups and Shimano GRX was well represented. Campy has a gravel group with 13 speeds in Ekar, but it is 1X only, so...

How about a 2X Super Record crank set with 45T/29T gearing? Or there is a 48T/32T as well. Both would stand up well as gravel crank sets. Pair this with a 13 speed 11 -36T cassette and the gearing range is there for racers.

Campagnolo could trickle this down through Chorus and other lower tiered groups, or - more likely - offer an Ekar 2X. Either way, don't count out Campy in the gravel racing scene just yet.

Image courtesy of Shimano

Shimano XTR Di2 Wireless Announced:

Shimano was rumored to be having a new XTR out and the rumors proved true as Shimano released news on Wednesday concerning their newest Di2 MTB group.

The big news here is the group is wireless. Now following with SRAM, (and Campy as seen above), Shimano will have removable batteries in the rear derailleur (no 2X option) and will offer 11 speed options for e-Bikes and 12 speed options as well.

You can check out all the details at Shimano's site HERE.  

Comments: While the obvious trickle-over feature will certainly be wireless for gravel at some point, there was one other notable bit of news with regard to this new group set and that has to do with the brakes.

Shimano XTR brakes now will use a new, "low viscosity" mineral oil. This easier flowing fluid will enhance braking feel and response, says Shimano. It is something worth keeping an eye on for the gravel rider.

Another small detail which caught my eye was the solid derailleur jockey wheels. This feature was utilized for less accumulation of debris in the rear derailleur cage. I could also see this as an upgrade to GRX in its next iteration. 

Trek Lime, a Shimano Coasting group bike

Shimano Announces Q-Auto Shifting: An Old Idea Renewed:

Shimano is primarily an R&D company. They have ideas and have had ideas which are workable prototypes in a big, secret warehouse I was told about years ago by a Shimano Skunk Works rider. 

Typically Shimano keeps everything under wraps until they get something they feel comfortable with releasing to the public. But rest assured that the Shimano engineers are not sleeping when you see something from SRAM which Shimano does not offer to you yet. In all likelihood, Shimano already has something like it in that warehouse. 

Take for instance Shimano's "new" Q-Auto shifting technology which automatically takes over shifting for you via a powered Di2 system run by a generator hub. Q-Auto also utilizes "learning technology" which customizes shift points based on how a person rides. This all is nothing new, in reality, and had anyone been paying attention, this is one technology which Shimano has shown their hand with a few times in the past. 

Probably the most blatant example of this was Shimano's ill-fated Coasting group from the late 2000's. This was an automatically shifted three speed internal hub gear system which ran off a generator hub. Pretty easy to make the leap here to a derailleur based drive train with electronic derailleurs.

But also, at about this same time, Shimano was giving a few folks a glimpse into the future with a fully automated 27 speed hybrid bicycle with a 3X front crank and a 9 speed rear. I actually was able to ride this example of an early Q-Auto idea when Gary Fisher pulled me aside at a press camp for Trek in Santa Cruz, California to allow me the opportunity to ride his sample. I must say, it worked flawlessly up and down the steep hills of Santa Cruz's beach front down town streets. 

Now, this idea, updated with electronic derailleurs and adaptive computer controls is available. There will be a CUES based offering and most of this will be aimed at e-Bikers and commuters at first. However; it will be coming for you on MTB trails, paved roads, and on gravel roads sooner than later.

While this will certainly make entry level and casual cyclists happy, I feel it will ultimately be a crutch and perhaps will end up becoming what kills off the skills needed to use a mechanical shifter. Much like how e-Bikes have rendered how to choose an appropriate gear to ride in a useless skill, this Q-Auto will likely put the nail in the coffin for how to properly use a derailleur drive train because no one will have to learn the skill.  

Guitar Ted Podcast New Episode:

The latest in the "Where We Came From" series is with Ryan "Uncle" Dudley. Ryan started a ride to benefit the local swimming pool in Eskridge, Kansas. The ride, called Gravel Ride for Masie's Pride, brought Ryan into the gravel culture and he met a lot of friends along the way.

Ryan's tales of Masie's days are awesome examples of what "grassroots gravel" was all about. Learning as he went, he eventually was successful in his goals and made a mark in the early gravel days.

Ryan also perticipated in nine DK200's and the msot recent Unbound 200 event. We get Ryan's perspectives on this as well, which is really interesting. Plus, you get to hear Ryan yell at his lawn mowing guy. (Yes, really!)

It's a fun, rollicking conversation. You can check it out HERE (Spotify link) or whereveer you get your podcasts from. 
 

That's a wrap for this week! Get out there and ride those bicycles! 

Two Things

Clik Valves from Wolf Tooth (Image courtesy of Wolf Tooth)

 Clik Valve Gains Traction:

On Thursday Wolf Tooth  Components released news that they are supporting Clik Valve with a mini-pump, tubeless valve stems, and cores to convert Presta valves along with pump heads.

Of course, I am testing Clik Valve on a wheel set along with a pump I have converted over to the system. You can read my latest update on the system HERE, but suffice it to say that I am bullish on this new standard. 

I'm also trying out the Stan's Exo Core valve stems, a "traditional" valve in the sense that it works with standard issue pumps, such as you may already have. The idea being that they flow a higher volume of air due to their unique design.  

Which is better? Well, the better question is "Which is easier to use?" Also, which would create more satisfaction with newer users? In my opinion the answer is Clik Valve with no debate. Both the Stan's and Clik Valves flow air quite well, so I think this is a bit of a wash, but if you want to use tire inserts, I'd stick with something like Stan's valves for now. However; I've no doubt, given the ease of use of the Clik Valve, that this system will end up finding favor with many casual cyclists and cycling enthusiasts alike.

From an email sent to me by a Trek dealer

How Long Before We Need A License & Insurance?

Trek dealers are email-blasting their customer lists concerning this new eBike with a throttle control which, apparently, does not require "assist".

The new Trek FS+ 1S also comes with turn signals and brake lights. Coupled with the throttle, what does this make you think of?

I can't blame Trek. I mean, how many other niche eBike companies offer something like this, and have, for well over five years now? Trek, and other traditional human-powered bicycle purveyors wanted to pretend for years that "assist" was going to be what appealed to riders. And make no mistake, it does to cyclists. But many people who are buying brands like Aventon, Rad Power, and others of this ilk are not typically "cyclists" in the sense that they were/are rabid about pedaling something with two wheels.

Of course, there are exceptions, and spare me all the "If it weren't for eBikes I/my____ wouldn't be riding" stories. I get it. This matters. I'm not talking about this use scenario. I'm speaking about the perceptions "non-traditional", shall we say, cyclists are looking at this type of product.

This user group outweighs the "need to pedal" group by a large margin, at least around here. I also hear this from other areas of the country. Mechanics reporting how eBike users slam the bike into the highest gear, and leverage the motor to do "work". Reports of throttle eBike users who never turn the crank arms. Users who are clearly disregarding traditional cycling "rules" on their eBikes, if they ever knew the protocols in the first place.

Younger folks who see eBikes as the "latest tech" and traditional 100% human powered bikes as "antiques" akin to penny farthings. These user groups want to sit and be moved. They are not very interested in "working to move". I'm not saying they are "lazy", nor am I saying they are "cheating", but humans take the path of least resistance, given the choice, and throttles are easier. Period.

I've said it all along. These motorized bikes would eventually evolve into electric motorcycles. This new Trek does nothing to convince me otherwise.

Friday News And Views

Image courtesy of KOM

 A "Thinking Outside Of The Box" FN&V

 KOM Xeno Hubs Redefine Rear Hub Technology:

A U.K. based company called KOM is attempting to redefine how rear hubs will look and work in the future with its Xeno hubset. 

Boasting a revolutionary design which places the ratcheting pawls, which allow for coasting, on the non-drive side of the hub, the Xeno hubs are a very different take on bicycle hubs. The hub uses a kind of torque tube, which transfers the power of pedaling to the other side of the hub from the cassette carrier. It is nothing like a traditional hub design.

The one-piece, tubular axle is supported by bearings which can be placed more outboard than can be with a traditional design, making for a claimed stiffer axle. This all results in a design which can take advantage of lighter materials and larger diameters for the axles and ratchet ring.

What is really wild about these Xeno hubs are the pawls, which are made from aluminum. KOM claims this is okay because the larger diameter of the system lends more leverage and thus a lighter material can be utilized without sacrificing strength necessary for transmitting pedaling forces. KOM claims the aluminum pawls have less inertia allowing for faster engagement of the 120 points of contact.

Of course, there is a compromise. This design necessitates a different disc rotor due to the non-standard diameter of the hub axle.  KOM sells a rotor with each hub which compensates for this. These are claimed to be lighter than usual rotors, again due to the diameter of the hub, and stiffer because the rotor mounting point is closer to the brake calipers. A unique four bolt mounting pattern is used as well.

Cost for a standard color (silver or black) hub set (front and rear Xeno design)  is approximately $1.100.00USD. Custom colored sets are available as well for an upcharge. 

 Comments: The Xeno hubs are MTB specific for now, but if something like this idea shows merit, it could be applied to other types of bicycles as well. Yes, the disc mount is odd, but this idea makes sense on the surface. If this idea proves to be worthwhile in the long haul there are several benefits to riders which standard hubs cannot provide. Obviously the prices would have to come down a lot for anything like this to become mainstream. Something to watch and see if it takes root here, I think. 

Image courtesy of KAV Helmets

KAV Helmets Redefines Helmet Fit, Tech With 3D Printing:

The helmet technology we ride with today is based upon materials and construction techniques developed decades ago. KAV Helmets looks to break this mold with their range of 3D printed helmets which boast several advantages, the most impressive being a customized fit for each purchaser of their helmets.

KAV Helmets offer a rider the chance to get a helmet which is claimed to be as aerodynamic as anything available, better at cooling your head, and made to fit your head. They do this by leveraging 3D printing.

Utilizing "crumple zone" design, KAV claims their helmets are nearly 3 times better at absorbing impacts. Using a hexagonal design, their helmets shear as well as crumple, which does basically the same thing as MIPS tries to achieve.

Their custom fit allows each helmet to be tailor made for its rider. KAV achieves this by sending you a link to an app after purchase which the customer uses to take an image of their head. The app maps the head and allows KAV to create a custom "Fit Cap" which is sent out to the customer for trial fitting. Once any changes are suggested and the cap is approved then KAV 3D prints your helmet and sends it to you. 

All this sounds incredibly expensive, but looking at the prices, the KAV range falls in line with most helmet company's top-range offerings with KAV helmets starting at $225.00USD and going up to $300.00USD. All manufacturing is based in the USA as well.

Comments: I've got an odd-shaped, BIG noggin, and this technology and manufacturing technique sounds pretty interesting. I'm considering it for myself.  

Image courtesy of Morelle 

Fast Charging In 15 Minutes?

Another outside of the box cycling product which soon might revolutionize things is from Morelle. An ebike that claims a fast charge of 15 minutes.

Using a silicon based battery instead of a graphite one, along with some other electronic wizardry, Morelle promises a bike you will be able to ride and recharge the battery in without much down time, which will allow riders to push the limits of range more than perhaps they do now with slower recharging rates.

Morelle hopes to move into more micro-mobility areas and energy storage systems but this product is a kind of proof-of-concept exercise to show their ideas work. You may have seen Gary Fisher touting the benefits of Morelle recently and he is a part of the company. The first concept bike was shown recently at Sea Otter.

The Morelle bike will go for 3K but if you are interested in having one you have to reserve one now for 2026 delivery. You can check the bike out HERE. 

Image courtesy of Lezyne.

Lezyne To Release Clik Valve Compatible Inflation Range:

Readers of the blog might be familiar with my ongoing review of Clik Valves and inflation accessories.  One of the negatives for switching over to these valves and valve cores is the dearth of choices in inflation tools which will interface with Clik Valves.

This will be relieved a bit now that Lezyne has committed to partnering with Clik Valve to introduce a range of inflation tools which will interface with the Clik Valve standard. These devices will include mini-pumps, floor pumps, and CO2 adapters for quick repairs in the field.

Details on the partnership can be read on Lezyne's site HERE.

Comments: You love to see it and this should give Clik Valve a big boost in acceptance. Personally, I feel Clik Valve is head and shoulders better than any other valve type and should replace what we are using now. Especially for newer cyclists who may find Presta valves off-putting, and many do in my experience. Clik Valve solves all the negativity around Presta and is easier to use than it and Schrader valves. 

I am looking for a tubeless valve stem offerings from other companies to be developed at this point and if this happens I think I'll start switching over to Clik Valve. I'll have more on my review coming later in the season. 

Iowa Wind And Rock Event This Weekend:

The successor to Trans Iowa, Iowa Wind And Rock, happens starting tomorrow at 4:00am in the morning and will continue on through Saturday, Saturday evening, and into Sunday ending at 2:00pm in the afternoon. 

An event navigated by cue sheet, this oddball of a gravel race is definitely "outside the box" in terms of the gravel racing/riding scene. There are imitators, (Long Voyage, Unbound XL, Mega Mid-South) but none of those can match the original formula which IWAR utilizes to this day.

Sending much love and hoping for tailwinds to all who toe that line tomorrow in the dark. 

Look for my Trans Iowa 20th anniversary post coming up on the 23rd, next week. 

That's a wrap for this week. Get out there and ride those bikes!

Update On The Clik Valve Gauge

 Note: The Clik Valve Gauge was purchased by Guitar Ted and was not provided to him by Clik Valve. All opinions and images are Guitar Ted's.

Recently I mentioned I realized I needed a gauge to monitor air pressure in my Clik Valve equipped wheel set on the Honeman Flyer gravel bike. I received the gauge and was quite surprised by a few things. So, I thought I would share the impressions I have along with providing an update on the air pressure question I had in my last Clik Valve review update. (HERE) 

Now on with the impressions of the Clik Valve Gauge. The gauge is available in digital or analog formats. I chose the analog format because, typically, they are more accurate, and I won't ever have to deal with a battery going bad. This is one tool that does not need to be electronic.

The price was actually less than the digital gauge as well, being sub 20 bucks at 18 dollars which is 8 dollars less than the digital gauge. It took almost a week to get it into my hands, but when I did open the box I was impressed by a few things.

The gauge was housed in its own storage pouch, not unlike those you may be familiar with which come with some ear buds/headphones. The small fabric loop on top has a mini-D ring for attaching the pouch to whatever you want so it can easily be found, I suppose.

Then once unzipped you will find the actual gauge which is quite nice. I was expecting a cheaply made, brass bodied gauge with a minimalist nozzle and gauge face which would not be all that inspiring. I mean, this thing is sub-twenty bucks, right? You just don't usually get much for a twenty spot these days which amounts to anything to get excited about. 

Well, the Clik Valve Gauge is different. The brass nozzle is chunky and heavy in the hand. I doubt that this gauge body is a thin piece of brass either, but it is hard to tell. This is because it is completely covered in rubber. Which, if you hadn't guessed, is a very good thing. The gauge face looks great, and the needle indicator actually rests on the zero peg on the gauge face, which is also a good thing. I was not expecting this gauge to have any of this.

Okay, but does it work well? I tried it right away, of course, and just like the Clik Valve pump head, this just pops over the valve and you can get an immediate readout with no hiss, which is great for better accuracy because you are not losing a significant amount of air pressure just by attaching a gauge. 

Then I noticed the gauge holds the reading you get until you push the brass button on the top. Nice! Especially for older eyes such as what I have!

So, I was very pleasantly surprised by the gauge, and being something of a tool-hound when it comes to bicycles, I appreciated the quality gauge at a very reasonable price. All right. Enough about this gauge. On to what my conclusions are regarding the Clik Valve and retention of air pressure. Also, a somewhat of a testimonial to the Topeak Joe Blow pump here.

The Joe Blow pump read out something over 20psi on my tires which prompted me to be a bit suspicious because 20psi is waaaay lower pressure than I normally can get away with at my weight. I immediately assumed the gauge on the Topeak pump had to be misbehaving. 

I did add air pressure with the Joe Blow right then, so I was reading out around 30 on that gauge before I came back with the Clik Valve Gauge to verify the pressure. The Clik Valve Gauge is supposedly calibrated to ANSI B40.1 Standards. So, that's a good thing. Well, when I checked the Clik Valve equipped wheels with this gauge I read out right at 30psi on one wheel and about 28.5 on the other. So.....

I must have been riding at 20psi or slightly above that when I had the bike out last. Amazing! And it means the Topeak gauge wasn't lying. Maybe it is not as accurate as the Clik Valve gauge, and it is definitely not as easy to read finer measurements of psi, but it is still good after all these years of use and abuse.

As for the Clik Valve cores I can now confidently say they did not enhance air retention capabilities for the tires on the Honeman Flyer. That part is just normal. So, now I can move on with that part of the review figured out conclusively now.

NOTICE: Keep in mind there is a Sea Otter related post coming out at 10:00am CST today with a review I was able to conduct while this product was under embargo. Please check that out later. Thanks for reading Guitar Ted Productions!

Clik Valves, Cores, and Pump Head: Review Update 2

 Note: Guitar Ted received a suite of products from Clik Valve for test and review at no charge. Guitar Ted is not being bribed nor paid for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's.

Since it has been almost two months since the last update, I thought I would give you all another look at how the Clik Valve cores are doing in my Honeman Flyer's wheels. Since the last update a couple of thoughts have crossed my mind which I think might be valuable to anyone looking to try this out on their own bicycles.

The last update can be seen HERE in case you want a refresher or in case you missed it.

Okay, so since I pumped up the tires to 40psi in February I have not touched them with a pump since then. Honestly, a quick bounce and pinch of the tires made me feel pretty confident they were okay every ride I went on, and so I never felt the need to pump them up, or check them...... Oh! Yeah, about that....

Clik Valve pressure gauge. Ah.... I do not have one! So, I had to rely on my old Topeak Joe Blow with the Clik Valve converted head to see where I was at after almost two months. The result? My Topeak pump said I was something on the plus side of 20. But.....this didn't seem right. The tires felt far firmer than 20psi. So, all I have to share now is this: I have a hunch the tires hold air better than before, but again - I don't know for sure. Time to order up the Clik Valve pressure gauge. 

This is another reason swapping to Clik Valve is a bit of a pain. You are outside of the normal valve standards, so not much of your old stuff is going to work here. And as well, you now have dedicated Clik Valve stuff, Presta valve stuff, and Schrader valve stuff? Gah! Seems to be a complication, and nothing to be looked at for many folks since bicycle standards barely exist in so many places. Why make wheels, gauges, and pumps more complicated when it comes to having all the various tools and components necessary to run all three standards.

I have to make sure I have THIS pump when I ride my Clik Valve wheels.

I suppose you could go "whole-hog" and go 100% Clik Valve on your fleet, and for some folks with only one bike, or a few, this makes sense. However; if you are like me and have a horde of bicycles, this doesn't seem to be a likely solution.

So, there is that to consider. However; every time I use the Clik Valve pump and valve it is apparent that it is so much easier to use it seems silly we have to put up with Schrader and Presta valves anymore. It literally could not be easier to use this system. So, from this standpoint, I still am a fan of Clik Valve.

Maybe my intuition that Clik Valve holds air better than the old Presta valves did is not right, but I will have to get the Clik Valve gauge and then perhaps I'll have some definitive data to back up my feelings on this matter. Or I'll be way off and wrong. We will see later

One thing I do know and that is the valves have not clogged up with sealant, nor are they harder to get air through them than at the beginning, so I feel they are a good tubeless system choice. I'll get on that gauge and in the next update I'll try to verify the air retention qualities. Another thing to consider: Can I re-up sealant by pulling the Clik Valve core and replace it like I can with a Presta valve? My gut feeling is the answer is "yes", but I'll see to proving this out as well. 

Stay tuned....

Two Things

Long before the days of cycling oriented "multi-tools" there were tool rolls, tool pouches, and individual wrenches. An example of this came through,my place of employment, the Cedar Valley Bicycle Collective, recently. 

An individual called about dropping off an old bike and when they came by to donate this bike it turned out to be an old Puegot road bike. It was kitted out with all its original equipment. The "carrot stick" Simplex shifters were still there intact, (IYKYK), and even the funky Simplex front derailleur still worked. It had its original, slightly dried out, Ideal leather saddle, (similar to a Brooks), and the infamous MAFAC Racer brakes.

 It was quite the time piece, as it looked completely unmolested since its sale in, probably the early 1970's, I would guess. Upon closer inspection I saw a black object which looked like a small bag just stuffed in between the saddle's rails and the leather top. I carefully removed it to find that this object was a tool bag. As you may have guessed from the image here. 

It was in remarkable condition and the tools were as well. I'm not sure the combination wrench was an original part of the kit, it looks different and may have been added years ago. However; the four other stamped steel wrenches with the "MAFAC"logo do match the bag with its embossed "MAFAC" logo. Even the hang straps are all intact, which look like easy casualties to wear and time. 

You've got to question the usefulness of stamped steel wrenches. I'm sure they might get you by, and certainly they are light, but obviously they were not precision instruments! I cannot say the combination wrench is a whole lot better, and it is a standard SAE wrench anyway. Not much use on a bicycle. 

It is a cool oddity though, and I will certainly keep it all together as a bit of a conversation starter for the shop and for clinics in the future as a show piece.  

Clik Valve products - Image by A Andonopoulous

Now as I sit and contemplate the soon to be here riding season, I wonder about dedicating a bike to using those TPU tubes to see what I think of this new thing. As I was thinking about what I like about TPU tubes, I was reminded of the number one downfall to these things, in my opinion, and that is the valve stem. 

Those plastic, flexible stems are probably not very sturdy. Although I haven't broken one yet, I know that is a distinct possibility. And furthermore, I do not want to find out. 

There is something I think would help fix this. That would be going to the Clik Valve design. I think it would work in plastic, but even just a steel or brass end, as the TPU tubes have anyway, in the format of a Clik Valve, would be really good. That is because Clik Valve is really easy to engage and disengage. It would likely pose much less of an issue when it comes to the possibility of breaking or damaging a TPU tube. 

Now there is another solution coming out very soon. I'll have more on that in this week's "FN&V", but that solution will be quite pricey. We will see.

Clik Valves, Cores, and Pump Head: Review Update 1

 Note: Guitar Ted received a suite of products from Clik Valve for test and review at no charge. Guitar Ted is not being bribed nor paid for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's.

Last time I posted on the Clik Valve products I introduced all the range and parts I was sent to test/review. You can check that out HERE in case you missed that or want a refresher. In this post I will cover the installation of the pump head parts, the installation of the valve cores, and then how that all worked in practice when used.

Of course, if I was going to use Clik Valve cores I needed a pump to use with them. I chose my SILCA Pista Plus floor pump and it was an easy swap to use the screw-in Clik Valve pump head converter. However; when I went to use this I discovered that my SILCA pump's gauge was not working. So.... Plan B!

This meant I needed to convert my old Topeak Joe Blow pump. I noted that this pump utilized the press-in barbed nozzle and hose fitment which happened to be what the complete Clik Valve pump head uses. So, I actually got to use both heads from Clik Valve in this operation. 

Then, obviously, I had to swap out valve cores on one of my bikes. With Winter being nearly over and, quite frankly, non-existent with the exception of sub-zero temperatures now and again, I decided that it looked like gravel season might start early. Now wait..... I probably just jinxed it. We'll have three weeks of snow! 

Anyway, I chose the Honeman Flyer I had made by King Fabrications. The single speed gravel bike will see a lot of use in the upcoming early parts of gravel riding for the year. The swap of valve cores was pretty simple, but I did notice one detail that I hadn't considered before. 

While the Clik Valve cores have flats so you can use a tool to tighten them, most "over-the-core" tools will not slip over the lipped opening of a Clik Valve. I was happy that Clik Valve did decide to utilize knurling on the valve core's body so I could get enough purchase on the valve core to tighten it by hand.  I am thinking a small, spanner-like wrench would be what you'd need here if you wanted a tool, but I am not aware of such a tool off the top of my head. In the end, I didn't need a tool, but if I had a problem in the field, and I needed to install a tube? I might wish for that spanner-like core removal tool. 

Maybe.

Since catastrophic tire failures are not a big thing, at least around here, I am not too worried about this detail, but I know that for some folks it is a concern, so you may want to look for an appropriate tool. 

Airing up the tires with Clik Valve parts on my pump and valve stem is definitely easier than using Presta or Schrader valves. Pushing on the pump head couldn't be any easier, and the pump head stayed put on the valve as I pumped up my tires to 40psi, which was done to account for the cold air of January outside. Now, of course, this isn't a big deal for low pressure tires, perhaps. So, I would like to try this on a road bike. I do have one, but I need to check to see if I have any tubes with removable cores to do that test. Once I get that lined up, I'll report back with a finding on how this Clik Valve pump head does going up to 100psi. 

You can see here how the pump head adapter screws into this SILCA fitting.

So Far... A ride or two, and sitting around for a bit shows me that the cores do not leak. That's a good sign. The only thing to do now is to complete many cycles of inflation and do a bunch of riding to determine if these cores are doing a good job. 

I am looking for any clogging of the valve that may cause difficulty with inflation. I will also be inspecting the seals on the cores after some time to see how they hold up against sealant. I'll be looking at the pump head to determine if there is any degradation in use over time. And I'll get around to that high pressure test as well.

Meanwhile I do have the full valves from Clik Valve to evaluate, I just need to figure out which wheels I am going to use with those. Hopefully that will be the next update on the Clik Valve products. So far, I am impressed with the ease of operation.

Clik Valves, Cores, and Pump Head: Review

Note: Guitar Ted received a suite of products from Clik Valve for test and review at no charge. Guitar Ted is not being bribed nor paid for this review. All opinions are Guitar Ted's. 

Image courtesy of Clik Valve

Last year during my Eurobike coverage I reported on a new valve standard being offered which would be retrofittable and easier to use than either the Schrader valve or Presta valve standards. 

I have now received several items from Clik Valve to test out to see if the claims are true. Is this really better than what we al know and which is tradition? This review will aim to discover this and more through usage over a longer period of time. 

My plan is to convert a pump I have to Clik Valve. Then I have in mind to convert a wheel to Clik Valve cores which I am already using a lot this Winter. That would be my Titanium Mukluk. Then, after things warm up a bit, I plan on using the Click Valve tubeless valve stems and seeing how those do. 

This will take several months to get to the bottom of things, so for now this post will serve as an introduction and technical data post on the Clik Valve system. I will also give you my initial impressions as well. 

Clockwise from far left: Clik Valve pump head converter. Click Valve cores with rubber caps, Clik Valve tubeless stem with metal cap, Clik Valve pump head.

 What It Is: Clik Valve is a new way to introduce air to tubeless tires and wheels. With the replacement cores, you could also convert standard butyl rubber Presta tubes to Clik Valve, although you would have to remember to keep the cores if the tube fails. There are also a couple of ways to convert legacy pumps to Clik Valve also which I will get into in a bit. 

You can think of this as a mini-Schrader Valve

Clik Valve is a sort of amalgamation of a Presta Valve, Schrader Valve, and a click-disconnect which makes engagement of the valve and pump head really easy. It doesn't use a collet type connector, like many air tools, instead, it simply pushes on, and when you hear a click, it is ready to use. When you are finished, you simply pull the pump head off. 

You can see in my image here a close-up of the Clik Valve head. This is from a Clik Valve tubeless stem, by the way. The black portion is anodized aluminum. The silver portion is a plated brass core with a spring inside which holds the Clik Valve in a closed position. 

The Clik Valve pump head has a metal center pin that engages the  center sprung portion of the valve core, pushing it inward, opening the valve up so air can be introduced. 

Sounds much like a Schrader Valve, but it is probably more correct to say that it is a sprung version of a Presta Valve core. At any rate, this is how Clik Valve works. The valve cores are retrofittable to current Presta valve standard tubeless valves and tubes. The pump heads are retrofittable to most currently used Presta valve pumps. So, if you wanted to convert your "fleet" of bikes and pumps, you could do that. 

So, this all begs the question: Why convert to Clik Valve? Well, for one thing, it is easier to use. That's apparent once you get the product in hand. No holding the pump head on, as with Schrader, and no unscrewing a valve core, as with Presta. No locking pump lever to flip either. Now Clik Valve will also say that this valve of theirs has higher air-flow, which is great for setting up tubeless tires. I'll be testing that later. 

You can also try Click Valve with a Presta pump. I tried this, and it works, but it isn't ideal, perhaps. You could easily switch up a current pump to utilize a Clik Valve pump head adapter or complete head. If you have a spare floor pump or mini-pump with a hose you want to check this out with, that might be ideal for you. 

Prices: there are a few kits available to get you going. First is the Premium Tubeless Valve Kit which is pictured in the first image in this post. That gets you a Clik Valve pump head, a pair of valve stems, and spare bits and bobbins for $52.00 USD. 

You will be able to get just the valves in a kit in five lengths. These will sell as pairs and will have the metal caps and extra rubber seats for rim interface from $28.00 USD and up. 

There are Clik Valve cores for Presta valves. A pair goes for $12.00 USD. There are converters for Schrader Valve to Clik Valve also. A pair of these goes for $12.95 USD. (Note - I did not receive these for testing) The Premium Clik Valve Pump Head Adapter is  $12.95 USD and the Clik 2-in-1 Right Angled Pump Head & Removeable Pump Adapter is $20.00 USD. You can check all of their products out HERE. 

Converting this SILCA floor pump was easy.

Impressions: Clik Valve is an intriguing solution for inflation needs. I definitely can see the appeal for some folks in the simplicity of operation of the system. I can see how this system might have been a better alternative to Presta valves, and it still is but...

Valve standards are pretty entrenched. What Clik Valve needs is OEM cooperation to really take a hold of this and adopt it. That's if all the claims hold up for this product. I think it is still to early to tell. 

For instance, how many inflation cycles does it take until the "click" is not so clicky? Does this system gum up with sealant like Presta valves do, or is it better in that regard? Will we end up changing out valve cores as often as we have to with Presta valves, and if so, what does that cost the user? 

These are the things that might be an issue that would make the ease of use feature not so much of a big deal to riders. Of course, a lot of these questions are not answerable now, nor will they be, until a decent amount of time has passed in usage.  

So, this is why I stated at the onset of this review that it will take some time to sort through these questions and to get some sort of clearer picture in regard to whether this Clik Valve system is worth switching over to. I really like the idea of just popping on a pump head and then popping it off just as quickly. No fussy locking levers, no unscrewing and screwing back on, and hopefully just a seamless experience. That is my expectation. Now let's see if that holds up over time. 

Stay tuned....