Friday News And Views

2020 Cutthroat frame/fork

 Salsa Cycles Issues Recall Notices On Cutthroat, Cutthroat Frame sets, And Carbon Forks: 

Earlier this week Salsa Cycles issued recall notices for certain Cutthroat, Cutthroat frame sets, and after market carbon forks. See the specifics here: https://salsacycles.com/cutthroat-carbon-v2-fork-recall

The statement released by Salsa Cycles reads as follows: 

"In some instances, the fork can crack or break which could lead to a crash. Stop riding your bicycle immediately and take it to a Salsa Authorized Retailer for inspection or replacement if necessary."

The models are listed on the site at the link provided above. Be aware that you cannot identify fork batch serial numbers without removing the fork, so an outward inspection is not enough. Please follow recommendations and check out your Cutthroat at a Salsa Cycles dealer if you think it may be affected by this recall.  

The fizik Alpaca Tool Carrier as mounted to a Terra XC saddle. Image courtesy of fizik.

fizik Debuts Tool Storage Solution:

Remember in last week's "FN&V" post where I shared with you all about that 'gravel specific Terra saddle from fizik? Well, they just announced a tool storage solution to go along with those saddles also. It is called the Alpaca Tool Carrier. 

It is not completely obvious how the Alpaca Tool Carrier integrates with the Terra saddles, but fizik says in its press release that" For a secure, integrated connection, the Tool Carrier easily affixes to your Alpaca saddle with a single screw." At any rate, you get a 12 function multi-tool and a place for two CO2 cartridges. The multi-tool body does double duty as an air inflation head. You also get "removable housing for two C02 cartridges, reusable zip ties and extra space for other small essentials. "

This isn't the first integrated tool carrying solution which works with a cycling saddle. THAT distinction would go to the Brooks B-17, most likely. Those two metal tabs on the back edge of Brooks B-17's are supposed to be mounting points for a leather tool bag, which Brooks also makes, (or did until recently). 

The fizik solution may appeal to those who buy into this saddle. It's kind of a neat, streamlined way to do things if you are all about CO2 carts. I know many of you are not really fans for various reasons. I also am not, but many folks dig the idea and this may be something that appeals to your needs. 

Arc8's new 'Eero' model gravel bike. Image courtesy of Arc8

A Look At The Latest In 'Gravel' Bikes: 

You may have noticed the mainstream cycling press sounding off on a new 'gravel' bike from a Swiss company called Arc8. The model the sites were carrying on about is the Eero, which is the first name of a famous rally car driver from the past with a penchant for gravel road performances, apparently. 

At any rate, while the marketing claims and hyperbole surrounding this release is somewhat laughable, I wanted to see what, if anything, this bike has that 'gravel' bikes had back in 2014 when the Tamland came around. So with that in mind, let's scrutinize the differences, shall we?

The Eero has what has been termed a 'more racy gravel geometry' which is not all slacked out. Hmm.... Okay, I found that these bikes sport a 71° head angle with a 50mm fork offset. The Tamland sported a 71.5° head angle with the same 50mm offset. The Eero has a 75mm bottom bracket drop with 420mm chain stays and clearances for 'up to a 50mm tire'. The Tamland had a 72.5mm bottom bracket drop with 435mm chain stays and clearances for up to a 50mm tire. 

The Eero has a frame which is carbon fiber, with claimed stiffness in the bottom bracket and a stiffer head tube than previous models offered by Arc8. The Tamland had a Reynolds 631 frame and fork with a beautiful 'steel' ride, and not at all like a carbon bike. 

The Eero also has the now prized 'clean' look since ALL it's cables are internally routed starting at the stem. The Raleigh had traditional, external routed cables with full run housing for both front and rear brakes.  Both bikes have two water bottle bosses inside the front triangle. The Eero also has a 'bento box' mount on the top tube and an additional cage mount underneath the down tube, as did later Tamlands. 

Comments: The geometry hasn't changed all that much with the exception of 'road racer' inspired short chain stays, which some say make the bike feel 'snappier'. I don't know about that, but I do know shoving the rear wheel underneath your butt more, (especially on larger sized riders) is a recipe for a bouncier ride off pavement. It also sketches out loose gravel descents. Noted also that the stiffness of the Eero was touted. Again- not exactly what we gravel riding folks are looking to have there. 

There are no provisions for bottle mounts on the forks of either this or the Tamland. However; you probably wouldn't want to ride a really stiff bike long enough to drink five water bottles worth of fluids either.  Or maybe you would. Good luck with that. 

Anyway, this whole 'gravel' thing should really be seen as an 'anti-racing', all-road, adventure, utility bike, better than racing bikes bike. Not a super-stiff race rocket, which is pretty much what the Eero sounds like to me. Maybe I'm all wrong, but if this is what becomes of gravel bikes, well some of it is right on, but rider comfort and control are, once again, being sacrificed. Not to mention ease of maintenance with the stupid internally routed stem cables. Gah! At least the Eero has a threaded bottom bracket. 

The WTB CZR rim in 23mm internal width. Image courtesy of WTB.

WTB Announces New Carbon Rims With The CZR:

Thursday WTB released news that they had a new offering for carbon rims dubbed CZR. Coming in two internal width sizes of 23mm and 30mm, WTB is aiming at the gravel and MTB riders here. This rim is lightweight, obviously, but according to WTB's press release, the CZR rims have also been tested and found to be very tough and stiff laterally. Both very desirable traits in a rim for off-pavement usage.   

The CZR also features WTB's 4D spoke hole 'geometry', which as a wheel builder myself, having used this feature, I can tell you that it does reduce unwanted tensions on the spoke where it exits the rim. This theoretically leads to a longer spoke life. I built an aluminum rimmed wheel set using WTB's 4D spoke drilling back 8 years ago and those wheels are still going with zero spoke issues. That's one data point, but it also is something to consider. 

Now for the bad part: $569.95 for EACH rim. Ouch! But......here's how I would look at this: You build up a set here with a decent hub set, let's say you spend around $600-$700 on that, then spokes, nipples, rim tape, and these rims. For under 2G you'd have a premium set of wheels, hand built, and I would expect them to last years and years. I mean, for gravel road riding? I'd think well over ten years would be nothing. You'd replace hub bearings maybe a time or three, but that's it. So, it would make sense for someone to build up a set IF they were thinking they would be cycling seriously and a lot for many years with a bike style that would fit this wheel's MO. 

Now on the MTB side, eh......less of a long term prospect here. Why? Well, wheel standards have changed what? Three times in the last ten years?  Changed so much that hubs are completely different lengths and with completely different interfaces. So, given that history, I would be remiss if I didn't think that trend would continue. In my opinion, the gravel bike thing is less likely to change, but even so- one could re-lace these to a new hub set. So, you would have to maybe think along those lines to justify the price. 

At any rate, an interesting new carbon rim here and something that can be used to lace up to any high end hub. There is a crash replacement warranty and a limited lifetime warranty on these as well. Check it out at WTB's site.  

That's a wrap for this week. Hope you all are getting outside! 

Friday News And Views

2020 Cutthroat frame/fork

 Salsa Cycles Issues Recall Notices On Cutthroat, Cutthroat Frame sets, And Carbon Forks: 

Earlier this week Salsa Cycles issued recall notices for certain Cutthroat, Cutthroat frame sets, and after market carbon forks. See the specifics here: https://salsacycles.com/cutthroat-carbon-v2-fork-recall

The statement released by Salsa Cycles reads as follows: 

"In some instances, the fork can crack or break which could lead to a crash. Stop riding your bicycle immediately and take it to a Salsa Authorized Retailer for inspection or replacement if necessary."

The models are listed on the site at the link provided above. Be aware that you cannot identify fork batch serial numbers without removing the fork, so an outward inspection is not enough. Please follow recommendations and check out your Cutthroat at a Salsa Cycles dealer if you think it may be affected by this recall.  

The fizik Alpaca Tool Carrier as mounted to a Terra XC saddle. Image courtesy of fizik.

fizik Debuts Tool Storage Solution:

Remember in last week's "FN&V" post where I shared with you all about that 'gravel specific Terra saddle from fizik? Well, they just announced a tool storage solution to go along with those saddles also. It is called the Alpaca Tool Carrier. 

It is not completely obvious how the Alpaca Tool Carrier integrates with the Terra saddles, but fizik says in its press release that" For a secure, integrated connection, the Tool Carrier easily affixes to your Alpaca saddle with a single screw." At any rate, you get a 12 function multi-tool and a place for two CO2 cartridges. The multi-tool body does double duty as an air inflation head. You also get "removable housing for two C02 cartridges, reusable zip ties and extra space for other small essentials. "

This isn't the first integrated tool carrying solution which works with a cycling saddle. THAT distinction would go to the Brooks B-17, most likely. Those two metal tabs on the back edge of Brooks B-17's are supposed to be mounting points for a leather tool bag, which Brooks also makes, (or did until recently). 

The fizik solution may appeal to those who buy into this saddle. It's kind of a neat, streamlined way to do things if you are all about CO2 carts. I know many of you are not really fans for various reasons. I also am not, but many folks dig the idea and this may be something that appeals to your needs. 

Arc8's new 'Eero' model gravel bike. Image courtesy of Arc8

A Look At The Latest In 'Gravel' Bikes: 

You may have noticed the mainstream cycling press sounding off on a new 'gravel' bike from a Swiss company called Arc8. The model the sites were carrying on about is the Eero, which is the first name of a famous rally car driver from the past with a penchant for gravel road performances, apparently. 

At any rate, while the marketing claims and hyperbole surrounding this release is somewhat laughable, I wanted to see what, if anything, this bike has that 'gravel' bikes had back in 2014 when the Tamland came around. So with that in mind, let's scrutinize the differences, shall we?

The Eero has what has been termed a 'more racy gravel geometry' which is not all slacked out. Hmm.... Okay, I found that these bikes sport a 71° head angle with a 50mm fork offset. The Tamland sported a 71.5° head angle with the same 50mm offset. The Eero has a 75mm bottom bracket drop with 420mm chain stays and clearances for 'up to a 50mm tire'. The Tamland had a 72.5mm bottom bracket drop with 435mm chain stays and clearances for up to a 50mm tire. 

The Eero has a frame which is carbon fiber, with claimed stiffness in the bottom bracket and a stiffer head tube than previous models offered by Arc8. The Tamland had a Reynolds 631 frame and fork with a beautiful 'steel' ride, and not at all like a carbon bike. 

The Eero also has the now prized 'clean' look since ALL it's cables are internally routed starting at the stem. The Raleigh had traditional, external routed cables with full run housing for both front and rear brakes.  Both bikes have two water bottle bosses inside the front triangle. The Eero also has a 'bento box' mount on the top tube and an additional cage mount underneath the down tube, as did later Tamlands. 

Comments: The geometry hasn't changed all that much with the exception of 'road racer' inspired short chain stays, which some say make the bike feel 'snappier'. I don't know about that, but I do know shoving the rear wheel underneath your butt more, (especially on larger sized riders) is a recipe for a bouncier ride off pavement. It also sketches out loose gravel descents. Noted also that the stiffness of the Eero was touted. Again- not exactly what we gravel riding folks are looking to have there. 

There are no provisions for bottle mounts on the forks of either this or the Tamland. However; you probably wouldn't want to ride a really stiff bike long enough to drink five water bottles worth of fluids either.  Or maybe you would. Good luck with that. 

Anyway, this whole 'gravel' thing should really be seen as an 'anti-racing', all-road, adventure, utility bike, better than racing bikes bike. Not a super-stiff race rocket, which is pretty much what the Eero sounds like to me. Maybe I'm all wrong, but if this is what becomes of gravel bikes, well some of it is right on, but rider comfort and control are, once again, being sacrificed. Not to mention ease of maintenance with the stupid internally routed stem cables. Gah! At least the Eero has a threaded bottom bracket. 

The WTB CZR rim in 23mm internal width. Image courtesy of WTB.

WTB Announces New Carbon Rims With The CZR:

Thursday WTB released news that they had a new offering for carbon rims dubbed CZR. Coming in two internal width sizes of 23mm and 30mm, WTB is aiming at the gravel and MTB riders here. This rim is lightweight, obviously, but according to WTB's press release, the CZR rims have also been tested and found to be very tough and stiff laterally. Both very desirable traits in a rim for off-pavement usage.   

The CZR also features WTB's 4D spoke hole 'geometry', which as a wheel builder myself, having used this feature, I can tell you that it does reduce unwanted tensions on the spoke where it exits the rim. This theoretically leads to a longer spoke life. I built an aluminum rimmed wheel set using WTB's 4D spoke drilling back 8 years ago and those wheels are still going with zero spoke issues. That's one data point, but it also is something to consider. 

Now for the bad part: $569.95 for EACH rim. Ouch! But......here's how I would look at this: You build up a set here with a decent hub set, let's say you spend around $600-$700 on that, then spokes, nipples, rim tape, and these rims. For under 2G you'd have a premium set of wheels, hand built, and I would expect them to last years and years. I mean, for gravel road riding? I'd think well over ten years would be nothing. You'd replace hub bearings maybe a time or three, but that's it. So, it would make sense for someone to build up a set IF they were thinking they would be cycling seriously and a lot for many years with a bike style that would fit this wheel's MO. 

Now on the MTB side, eh......less of a long term prospect here. Why? Well, wheel standards have changed what? Three times in the last ten years?  Changed so much that hubs are completely different lengths and with completely different interfaces. So, given that history, I would be remiss if I didn't think that trend would continue. In my opinion, the gravel bike thing is less likely to change, but even so- one could re-lace these to a new hub set. So, you would have to maybe think along those lines to justify the price. 

At any rate, an interesting new carbon rim here and something that can be used to lace up to any high end hub. There is a crash replacement warranty and a limited lifetime warranty on these as well. Check it out at WTB's site.  

That's a wrap for this week. Hope you all are getting outside! 

A Couple Questions Answered

From time to time I get asked questions that deserve answers in a different way than I normally answer them. Usually I just respond directly in the comment section here, or if I get the question via e-mail, by that mode. However; every so often a question, or in this case- two questions, get asked that I feel are questions many of you may have. A direct answer would obviously immediately satisfy the asker, but what about everyone else that I feel may be sitting there wondering similar thoughts, but never take the time to actually ask? Well, this post is for those folks. (Hopefully I am right and you folks are actually wondering about these things!)

A fancy-pants tool roll. You don't really need anything this esoteric.

Tools For Gravel Travel:

In my post Monday I mentioned that I was happy that I had the proper tools to keep me going that day through the mucky-muck. Someone in the comments asked what sort of tools are those? So, I am going to put out what I feel is a good set of things for a solo gravel rider to have on board in case of emergency.

Of course, you can probably guess a few items straight away- tube, tire lever, spare chain links, etc. However; I often augment my kit with a few things that go beyond the basics, but for the list, I will include everything. Sometimes I actually will add and subtract items depending on where and how far I am riding. For instance, I'll carry a much more extensive kit for a foray into the Flint Hills of Kansas alone than I would for a local 20 mile ride. That said, I'll indicate the "extras" I consider here (With an asterisk) and the reason why I will should now be understood. And finally- this is my version of things. You may not agree, or you may actually carry completely different stuff than I would.

The List Of Tools For Gravel Travel:

• A Bag: Gotta have somewhere to put the kit! This could be a seat bag, a frame bag, a top tube mounted "gas tank" style bag, or a handle bar bag or front rack bag. I use all of the aforementioned types on different bikes. 
• Spare tube: The appropriate sized spare tube (700c or 650B or...?), with the correct valve stem length for the wheels. NEVER carry a tube without protection from a box or individual wrap of some sort. I use an old sock or handkerchief/bandana for this. If you let a tube rub on the bag on your bike or against other items in the bag unprotected you could damage the tube to the point it will have failed before you need it. That won't do anyone any good!
• Tire Lever: I like Pedros latest, but there are a lot of good ones now. You only really should need one, but they usually nest together, so two isn't a bad choice here.  Bonus Use: Mud scraper.
• Patch Kit*: Remo Patch kit only for me. 
• Multi-Tool: There are a lot of good ones. Minimalist tools are......usually hard to use. Sometimes I will substitute in "real tools" like individual Hex keys, Torx keys, chain breakers, or the like. The weight is no big deal, unless you are doing Tour Divide or suffer from  "weight-weenie-ism" It's a thing!
• Inflation Device: Sorry folks! I am not a fan of CO2 carts. (Although I've been known to have them and have used them) I'd rather use a good mini-pump with an extendable hose, thread on attachment or good quality lever lock, a BIG barrel to push a LOT of  air, (I don't normally ride anything that needs more than 50psi) and one that is built from metal, not plastic.  Best pump: Frame pump! Bonus Use: (Frame pump only) Warding off dogs.
• Chain: Quick links AND bits of chain links is what I generally carry. I've seen chains get twisted where you would have to remove a couple links. Best not to run a too-short chain due to the possibility of shearing off your rear derailleur if you inadvertantly shift to the "big-big" combo. You may say, "Yeah, but I'd never use that combination.". I reply- famous last words! 
• Mud Scraper: I have metal mud scrapers fashioned from barbecue skewers, one made from a plastic spatula, and the aforementioned plastic tire lever which can work in a pinch or tight spot. 
• Derailleur Cable*: Only taken on long solo rides.
• Pliers*: Sometimes as part of a multi-tool, sometimes separate mini-pliers. Used for cable tensioning/cable replacement, tubeless valve nut removal, and for holding a nut in a pinch. (Sorry about the pun!)
• First Aid Kit*: Should be obvious. This can include lip balm and suntan lotion. 
• Chain Lube: I didn't indicate this as an "extra" as I have it along for most rides and have used it often enough that it stays on the short list here. 
• Tubeless Sealant*: An extra I carry only in remote areas on really long rides. 

I could go on, probably, but this post is getting out of control already, so...... On to the next question!

What could this mean?

Trans Iowa v14 Logo/Header Art:

I also got a question about what the background/meaning could be in regard to the Trans Iowa art for v14. Well........there is a story here. 

Trans Iowa riders have for years accused me of routing the course in such a way that it will pass by every available rural cemetery I can find.  Of course, old timers will also remember V3's ending at a cemetery and V5's starting at one. I also had V12 run through a cemetery just before the finish line.

While the three examples concerning starts and finishes for Trans Iowa were intentional, I can assure you that any rural cemetery Trans Iowa goes by is completely random and unintentional. There really are just that many of them out there. In fact, my longtime recon companion, Jeremy Fry, used to keep a tally of the number of cemeteries along each route we would explore. 

Can you see any resemblance?

 Then I also have been keeping a tally of cemeteries I ride past on gravel rides. I will take an image of my bike under the gate, if any, and generally speaking, these gates have names of the cemetery on them so I can recall where it was I found them.

These gates have a certain style and flair all their own. Generally made up of tubing and twisted flat stock metal, the ironwork is sometimes pretty incredible. This example seen here above of the St. Francis Cemetery gate East of Waterloo is a great example of what I mean.

So, I figured why not celebrate that style and the legend that I route Trans Iowa by cemeteries on purpose with a stylized "gate" based on the iconography not only of cemeteries in the rural Mid-West, but of my last several Trans Iowa artworks. (Note the "wings"?) There is also a different story with the "cross" in the center. That is something entirely different in its origin.

That pays a kind of homage to Jeff Kerkove's first Trans Iowa logo he designed in 2004. Jeff had a weird, "L" kind of "crooked cross" thing going on there in each corner. If you look at the original logo here, you can see how I pulled the image in the center of this year's logo from the upper left corner of Jeff's design.So that had a different influence than the rest of this year's artwork, but I felt it all worked together well.

Hopefully that satisfies y'all out there. I could add more but that should suffice for the time being. That said, you are always welcome to ask questions in the comments or to e-mail me questions anytime.

Thanks!

A Couple Questions Answered

From time to time I get asked questions that deserve answers in a different way than I normally answer them. Usually I just respond directly in the comment section here, or if I get the question via e-mail, by that mode. However; every so often a question, or in this case- two questions, get asked that I feel are questions many of you may have. A direct answer would obviously immediately satisfy the asker, but what about everyone else that I feel may be sitting there wondering similar thoughts, but never take the time to actually ask? Well, this post is for those folks. (Hopefully I am right and you folks are actually wondering about these things!)

A fancy-pants tool roll. You don't really need anything this esoteric.

Tools For Gravel Travel:

In my post Monday I mentioned that I was happy that I had the proper tools to keep me going that day through the mucky-muck. Someone in the comments asked what sort of tools are those? So, I am going to put out what I feel is a good set of things for a solo gravel rider to have on board in case of emergency.

Of course, you can probably guess a few items straight away- tube, tire lever, spare chain links, etc. However; I often augment my kit with a few things that go beyond the basics, but for the list, I will include everything. Sometimes I actually will add and subtract items depending on where and how far I am riding. For instance, I'll carry a much more extensive kit for a foray into the Flint Hills of Kansas alone than I would for a local 20 mile ride. That said, I'll indicate the "extras" I consider here (With an asterisk) and the reason why I will should now be understood. And finally- this is my version of things. You may not agree, or you may actually carry completely different stuff than I would.

The List Of Tools For Gravel Travel:

• A Bag: Gotta have somewhere to put the kit! This could be a seat bag, a frame bag, a top tube mounted "gas tank" style bag, or a handle bar bag or front rack bag. I use all of the aforementioned types on different bikes. 
• Spare tube: The appropriate sized spare tube (700c or 650B or...?), with the correct valve stem length for the wheels. NEVER carry a tube without protection from a box or individual wrap of some sort. I use an old sock or handkerchief/bandana for this. If you let a tube rub on the bag on your bike or against other items in the bag unprotected you could damage the tube to the point it will have failed before you need it. That won't do anyone any good!
• Tire Lever: I like Pedros latest, but there are a lot of good ones now. You only really should need one, but they usually nest together, so two isn't a bad choice here.  Bonus Use: Mud scraper.
• Patch Kit*: Remo Patch kit only for me. 
• Multi-Tool: There are a lot of good ones. Minimalist tools are......usually hard to use. Sometimes I will substitute in "real tools" like individual Hex keys, Torx keys, chain breakers, or the like. The weight is no big deal, unless you are doing Tour Divide or suffer from  "weight-weenie-ism" It's a thing!
• Inflation Device: Sorry folks! I am not a fan of CO2 carts. (Although I've been known to have them and have used them) I'd rather use a good mini-pump with an extendable hose, thread on attachment or good quality lever lock, a BIG barrel to push a LOT of  air, (I don't normally ride anything that needs more than 50psi) and one that is built from metal, not plastic.  Best pump: Frame pump! Bonus Use: (Frame pump only) Warding off dogs.
• Chain: Quick links AND bits of chain links is what I generally carry. I've seen chains get twisted where you would have to remove a couple links. Best not to run a too-short chain due to the possibility of shearing off your rear derailleur if you inadvertantly shift to the "big-big" combo. You may say, "Yeah, but I'd never use that combination.". I reply- famous last words! 
• Mud Scraper: I have metal mud scrapers fashioned from barbecue skewers, one made from a plastic spatula, and the aforementioned plastic tire lever which can work in a pinch or tight spot. 
• Derailleur Cable*: Only taken on long solo rides.
• Pliers*: Sometimes as part of a multi-tool, sometimes separate mini-pliers. Used for cable tensioning/cable replacement, tubeless valve nut removal, and for holding a nut in a pinch. (Sorry about the pun!)
• First Aid Kit*: Should be obvious. This can include lip balm and suntan lotion. 
• Chain Lube: I didn't indicate this as an "extra" as I have it along for most rides and have used it often enough that it stays on the short list here. 
• Tubeless Sealant*: An extra I carry only in remote areas on really long rides. 

I could go on, probably, but this post is getting out of control already, so...... On to the next question!

What could this mean?

Trans Iowa v14 Logo/Header Art:

I also got a question about what the background/meaning could be in regard to the Trans Iowa art for v14. Well........there is a story here. 

Trans Iowa riders have for years accused me of routing the course in such a way that it will pass by every available rural cemetery I can find.  Of course, old timers will also remember V3's ending at a cemetery and V5's starting at one. I also had V12 run through a cemetery just before the finish line.

While the three examples concerning starts and finishes for Trans Iowa were intentional, I can assure you that any rural cemetery Trans Iowa goes by is completely random and unintentional. There really are just that many of them out there. In fact, my longtime recon companion, Jeremy Fry, used to keep a tally of the number of cemeteries along each route we would explore. 

Can you see any resemblance?

 Then I also have been keeping a tally of cemeteries I ride past on gravel rides. I will take an image of my bike under the gate, if any, and generally speaking, these gates have names of the cemetery on them so I can recall where it was I found them.

These gates have a certain style and flair all their own. Generally made up of tubing and twisted flat stock metal, the ironwork is sometimes pretty incredible. This example seen here above of the St. Francis Cemetery gate East of Waterloo is a great example of what I mean.

So, I figured why not celebrate that style and the legend that I route Trans Iowa by cemeteries on purpose with a stylized "gate" based on the iconography not only of cemeteries in the rural Mid-West, but of my last several Trans Iowa artworks. (Note the "wings"?) There is also a different story with the "cross" in the center. That is something entirely different in its origin.

That pays a kind of homage to Jeff Kerkove's first Trans Iowa logo he designed in 2004. Jeff had a weird, "L" kind of "crooked cross" thing going on there in each corner. If you look at the original logo here, you can see how I pulled the image in the center of this year's logo from the upper left corner of Jeff's design.So that had a different influence than the rest of this year's artwork, but I felt it all worked together well.

Hopefully that satisfies y'all out there. I could add more but that should suffice for the time being. That said, you are always welcome to ask questions in the comments or to e-mail me questions anytime.

Thanks!